In the world of high jewellery, the 140-year-old Italian house has cultivated a reputation of being the masters of coloured gemstones. Colour is what forms the foundation of the brand’s deep ties to India as well. When AD India met Lucia Silvestri (Bulgari Jewellery’s creative director), prior to their private showcase of the Bulgari Heritage Collection in collaboration with businesswoman and jewellery patron Isha Ambani at her family’s landmark residence in Mumbai, Silvestri alluded to the same too. “The first time I came to India many years ago with Mr. [Paolo] Bulgari, I was surprised by the colours, the atmosphere and the energy of the country. And that is something that continues to inspire me every time I come back here,” said Silvestri.
Bulgari
Bulgari
Paolo Bulgari, scion of the brand’s founding family, echoed similar sentiments during an interview back in 2015: “India has given us a lot. All the colours of its art and architecture have paved the way for our inspiration towards creating modern jewellery. The country has been vital in the formation of our taste, opening doors towards European jewellery as well,” he said. “Indians were the first to mix colours in a daring way, paving an integral milestone in the world of jewellery design.”
Bulgari
The recent archival jewellery showcase in India themed around the hues of , christened a ‘Roman Holi’, sought inspiration in the symbolism of the nine gems or Navaratna (ruby, pearl, amethyst, emerald, yellow sapphire, blue sapphire, peridot, diamond and citrine) in Indian culture that are considered to be talismans of health, prosperity and wellbeing. All the nine pieces of high jewellery dated back to the 1980s, and were each connected to one of these nine gemstones. Silvestri talks about an emerald, amethyst, ruby and diamond necklace, where the paisley-like amethysts used are called the Kashmir shape, and were originally sourced from India. Another necklace — a choker fashioned with cultured pearls, emeralds and diamonds — Silvestri felt would be right at home in India because, “you wear a lot of chokers in your tradition. I always buy a few myself when I come to India.” And then there is the ruby and diamond necklace on a simple silk cord, that pays homage to traditional Indian cord jewellery worn by India’s erstwhile maharajas.
Bulgari
Bulgari
Each gem in the Navaratna is also believed to hold astrological significance by being tied to one of the nine planets. “While I don’t know about the specific energies of each stone according to Indian beliefs, I do greatly believe in the general energy of gems. I have a special connection with them. I know, for instance, that when I am anxious or nervous, I need to touch a cabochon gem, especially an amethyst, to feel better.”
Bulgari
Bulgari
The Bulgari Heritage Collection — as well as the other iconic designs displayed that evening such as the ‘Serpenti’ collection, or the Magnifica Imperial Spinel High Jewellery necklace with a 131.24 carat faceted spinel, emerald beads and diamonds — exhibit fearless, and oftentimes unconventional, use of colour. “Over the years, I’ve learnt not to be shy with colour. But the keyword is harmony — between colours, cut, shape, sizes and value,” explains Silvestri. “You cannot be creative just to be creative. At the end, we also have to share and sell beauty.”