In the culinary world, unexpected trends can sometimes take over a restaurant's identity. Such is the case with Xiao Ye in Portland, Oregon, where chef Louis Lin introduced a burger night to attract new diners. The establishment, known for its innovative and globally inspired dishes, has faced an interesting challenge: balancing the popularity of their burgers with the integrity of their original menu. Since opening in September 2023, Xiao Ye has garnered acclaim for its unique fusion cuisine, but as the winter months brought slower business, Lin experimented with a burger night that quickly became a hit. Now, after twelve successful burger nights, the restaurant must decide whether to keep this crowd-pleaser on the regular menu or maintain focus on its signature offerings.

Lin’s initial burger creation was a jalapeno popper variation that unexpectedly sold out. This success sparked a monthly tradition that not only filled seats but also introduced the restaurant to a broader audience. However, the popularity of these burgers has raised concerns about how they fit into the overall dining experience. Burgers, while delicious and familiar, tend to lower the average spending per guest and complicate kitchen operations. Many chefs find themselves in a similar predicament, including Caroline Glover, who experienced the burger phenomenon firsthand at The Spotted Pig in New York City. There, despite offering exquisite dishes, the kitchen was dominated by burger production. Glover eventually added her own twist during the pandemic, only to later remove it from the dinner menu due to logistical challenges.

The dilemma extends beyond Xiao Ye. In Philadelphia, River Twice offers a popular burger called the “Mother Rucker,” which serves as a draw for Monday nights. Chef Randy Rucker describes it as a metaphor for the restaurant—serious yet playful. For Lin, the burger night remains a fun experiment, always featuring different variations. While he loves the concept, he acknowledges the risk of oversaturating the menu with something that could overshadow the restaurant's core identity. The key, he believes, lies in maintaining the balance between innovation and staying true to the narrative the restaurant aims to convey.

Ultimately, the decision to include burgers on a permanent basis comes down to preserving the essence of what makes a restaurant unique. For Xiao Ye, the story they wish to tell is best told through their distinctive and adventurous dishes. Lin is committed to ensuring that the restaurant's identity isn't compromised by the allure of a simple yet beloved comfort food. By keeping the burger night as a special event, he hopes to continue attracting new guests without detracting from the culinary journey he wants to offer.