Crafting Excellence: Aphelion's Grenache Odyssey
The Inception of a Grenache Vision
Upon settling in McLaren Vale after relocating from Sydney, winemaker Rob Mack quickly recognized the exceptional quality of dry-grown Grenache from venerable bush vines. This discovery sparked an immediate desire to specialize in this varietal. In 2014, with the acquisition of a single tonne of Grenache fruit from the esteemed Brini family vineyard, Rob and his wife, Louise Rhodes Mack, officially launched their own label, Aphelion.
The Art of Impeccable Winemaking
The journey of Aphelion began with an intense exploration of Grenache sites and styles, leading to a portfolio of seven distinct Grenache wines, including two single-site expressions. These wines have garnered significant acclaim, with high scores in prestigious tastings. Rob Mack, driven by a desire to work with pristine fruit, meticulously crafts each wine to express supreme elegance and finesse. This commitment involves continuous innovation, with new investigations pursued each year to allow each vineyard site to truly shine, presenting fresh challenges with every vintage.
The Grandeur of McLaren Vale Grenache
In the hands of McLaren Vale's most astute producers, Grenache has ascended to become Australia's interpretation of a 'grand cru' varietal—rare, individualistic, and profoundly expressive of its specific site. Much of this distinction stems from the age of the vines, some reaching up to 120 years old, combined with the region's complex geology. McLaren Vale's geological map, first published in 2008, reveals 21 soil types dating back up to 300 million years across its 7,438-hectare wine region. This intricate complexity has led to a surge in single-site Grenache wines, fostering competition among producers to secure the finest fruit from privately owned vineyards. The Brini family vineyard, specifically its Blewitt Springs sub-region, is particularly sought after for its deep sands and pockets of ironstone. The Macks were pioneers in featuring the vineyard's name on their wine labels, nurturing a thriving relationship with the Brini family over eleven years. They take immense pride in elevating the recognition of this exceptional vineyard, proving its deserving place in the wine world.
Regional Identity and Single Vineyard Focus
The Macks continue to source significant Grenache fruit from the Brini Vineyard, alongside some outstanding Chenin Blanc grapes. Aphelion consistently offers multiple Grenache expressions from McLaren Vale with each vintage. A cornerstone of their portfolio is 'Confluence,' a regional blend designed to showcase Grenache's rich mid-palate character. This wine combines fruit from various Blewitt Springs sites, employing diverse winemaking techniques, from whole-bunch fermentation to extended maceration. It expertly blends sharp, youthful vibrancy with the enduring qualities of old-vine persistence, supported by subtle tannins. Aphelion's single-vineyard expressions offer even greater precision. The Brini Grenache delivers a full-bodied and intense flavor profile, with dark plum fruits and earthy undertones, creating a wine of remarkable depth and richness. In contrast, The Wait Grenache presents a more spirited and lively character, its prolonged mid-palate invigorated by a powdered core of black tannins that culminates in a dramatic finish. Rob emphasizes that each site yields wines of distinct character, and their mission is to capture these nuanced differences in every bottle.
Embracing Growth and Expansion
Aphelion's success has fueled significant growth. From processing a mere one tonne of grapes in 2014, their volume expanded to three tonnes in 2016 and a substantial 21 tonnes in 2017, solidifying Rob and Louise's commitment to the brand. This growth was a collective leap of faith, recognizing the immense potential. Rob, leveraging his business acumen, developed a strategic plan for Aphelion, while Louise earned acceptance into South Australia's Young Entrepreneur Scheme. The increasing production necessitated a larger workspace, prompting them to move their operations to their home in Willunga. Here, their front room transformed into a sales office and a tasting lounge, accessible by appointment. This intimate setting, often bustling with their children and pets, provided a genuine reflection of their passion and lifestyle. Since 2018, Rob has enhanced the customer experience by conducting vineyard tours, pouring wines from the back of his ute (an Australian utility vehicle) directly at the sites where Aphelion's grapes are sourced. This immersive approach adds a romantic touch to the tasting experience and reinforces their belief in the paramount importance of site expression in their wines.
The Freedom to Innovate and Evolve
By 2020, amidst the global disruptions of COVID-19, the Macks fully committed to Aphelion, leaving their other jobs as production scaled to 50 tonnes. This decision led to leasing a larger cellar door and tasting venue overlooking vineyards north of McLaren Vale township. Visitors can now enjoy guided tastings of Aphelion's thoughtfully curated range, which has both expanded and refined over the years. This evolution reflects both the availability of high-quality fruit from the Macks' preferred vineyards and their growing interest in varietals beyond Grenache. Chenin Blanc has emerged as a prominent feature, while Sagrantino and Nero d'Avola make guest appearances. However, Shiraz will depart the lineup after the 2020 vintage. Louise emphasizes that their status as a small, agile wine brand grants them the freedom to adapt and explore new possibilities in their wine production. They are not bound by rigid expectations. This approach has inspired Aphelion's boldest project yet: the 2024 Hickinbotham Series of Grenache, sourced from three tiny blocks at the highest elevations of the Hickinbotham vineyard in Clarendon. Each of these wines, produced in extremely limited quantities of only 360 bottles, is picked and made on the same day. Rob explains that this project transcends single-vineyard focus, delving into micro-plot nuances to demonstrate Grenache's ability to express subtle differences from closely situated blocks. Few varietals possess this capacity, and Grenache stands out among them. This initiative underscores their ambition to delve even deeper into Grenache. Louise notes they are intensifying their scrutiny of the fruit they acquire, meticulously examining points of differentiation to craft more site-specific wines. Future plans include small-batch projects sold exclusively through their cellar door, acting as experiments that will inform Rob's future winemaking decisions. These trials will involve concrete egg fermentation, diverse tannin manipulation techniques, and varied oak usage. Rob concludes that when they first started Aphelion, his goal was to produce Grenache wines worthy of global discussion. Now, with all the elements in place, he feels that recognition is finally within reach.