This report delves into the distinctive philosophy of Bodegas Roda and its Ribera del Duero counterpart, La Horra, spotlighting their pioneering commitment to vineyard-centric winemaking. Amidst an evolving wine landscape, these Spanish producers have carved out a unique identity, prioritizing the intrinsic qualities of the land and each vintage to craft their celebrated Rioja and Ribera del Duero wines. Their journey, often in divergence from prevailing industry norms, underscores a deep-seated belief in the power of terroir and sustainable practices. The narrative highlights how their visionary approach, spanning from meticulous grape selection to innovative aging techniques, positions them as exemplars of modern Spanish viticulture, continually pushing boundaries while honoring the essence of their origins.
Bodegas Roda: A Pioneering Vision in Spanish Viticulture
In the vibrant heart of Spain, Bodegas Roda, alongside its Ribera del Duero counterpart, La Horra, stands as a beacon of modern winemaking, championing a philosophy centered on the intrinsic link between landscape and vintage. This innovative approach, deeply rooted in the nuanced conditions of the vineyard, represents a significant departure from traditional practices, showcasing a steadfast commitment to quality and expression.
Founded in 1987 by the visionary duo Carmen Daurella and Mario Rotllant, Bodegas Roda emerged during a period when the global wine industry, influenced by figures like Robert Parker, favored wines of pronounced fruit, extraction, and oak. Yet, from its inception, Roda embarked on a different path, prioritizing the vineyard above all else. Victor Charcán, the astute sales director at Bodegas Roda, articulates this foundational principle: \"We were born in that time, but we never took it to the extreme.\" This foresight led them to invest in prime vineyard plots, focusing on ancient bush vines (older than 30 years) with the right soils, a strategy that, though initially challenging, laid the groundwork for their distinctive wines.
The grapes for Roda's esteemed portfolio – Sela, Roda, Roda I, Cirsion, and Roda I Blanco – are meticulously sourced from within a 10-15 km radius of their base in Haro. This localized sourcing, combined with specific varietals like Graciano from higher altitudes near Logroño and Garnacha from across the Ebro River, ensures a rich tapestry of flavors and characteristics.
A recent visit to Roda’s Perdigón vineyard in Briñas offered profound insights into the region’s intricate climatic influences. This elevated site, strategically positioned, benefits from a unique confluence of Mediterranean warmth, continental vigor, and Atlantic freshness. Charcán emphasizes how these diverse influences shape the grapes, producing wines of remarkable complexity and balance.
Addressing the pressing challenges of climate change, Bodegas Roda has proactively adapted its viticultural practices. Traditionally, warmer 'Mediterranean' vintages were more highly regarded. However, current trends favor the nuanced expressions of 'Atlantic' years, highlighting a shift in preference for vineyards with northern exposure. This adaptation is evident in their Cellorigo vineyard, planted in 2020 at an elevation of 660m near the Obarenes mountains. Employing the innovative 'key line' system, this vineyard's sinuous contours are designed to prevent erosion and optimize water retention, ensuring resilience against environmental shifts. The beneficial Cierzo wind, akin to the Rhône’s Mistral, further contributes to the vineyard's health, acting as a 'healing wind' that protects vines after heavy rains.
Roda's dedication extends to pioneering genetic research. Concerned about the diminishing genetic diversity of modern Tempranillo plantings, they initiated a comprehensive clonal research program, identifying over 400 distinct mutations. This groundbreaking work has led to the establishment of a gene bank, poised to guide future vineyard plantings. Similar research is underway for Ribera del Duero and now Viura, aiming to preserve and enhance the genetic heritage of these crucial varietals.
The latest addition to the Roda family, Roda I Blanco, showcases Viura as its focal point, complemented by Garnacha Blanca and Malvasía. This white wine undergoes an 18-month aging process in 500-liter French oak barrels, followed by another 18 months in bottle, ensuring depth and longevity. Notably, Roda’s approach to oak is diverse, sourcing barrels from multiple coopers to prevent any single influence from dominating their wine style.
While Roda champions 'landscape and vintage,' their wines are not singular vineyard expressions but meticulously crafted blends that encapsulate the varied flavor profiles of Tempranillo from their Rioja vineyards. This blending philosophy allows for adaptation to each vintage, incorporating Graciano and Garnacha in varying proportions to achieve the desired balance. For instance, in warmer years like 2022, a higher percentage of Graciano and Garnacha might be used to maintain the wine's characteristic 'dark red' profile.
Cirsion, Roda’s esteemed top-tier wine, embodies their counter-intuitive approach. Its genesis lies in the discovery of certain vines producing grapes with exceptionally silky tannins, leading to its inaugural vintage in 1998. Defying conventional wisdom, Cirsion is aged for only nine months, a duration significantly shorter than typical Rioja crianza wines, yet commands the highest price, a testament to its unique character derived directly from the vineyard.
The journey of Bodegas Roda and La Horra continues to unfold, with future explorations set to delve into La Horra’s new winery in Ribera del Duero, further solidifying their legacy as innovative leaders in the world of Spanish wine.
From the perspective of a seasoned wine enthusiast, the narrative of Bodegas Roda and La Horra is profoundly inspiring. In an industry often swayed by trends, their unwavering commitment to the inherent qualities of the vineyard—the 'landscape and vintage' mantra—is a refreshing testament to authenticity. It underscores a crucial lesson: true excellence in winemaking emerges not from chasing fleeting styles, but from a profound understanding and respect for the land. Their proactive embrace of environmental challenges, evidenced by innovative viticultural techniques and genetic research, highlights a forward-thinking resilience that should serve as a blueprint for the global wine community. This approach doesn't just produce exceptional wines; it cultivates a sustainable future for viticulture, reminding us that the deepest expressions of terroir are born from harmony between nature and human ingenuity.