The Chianti Classico Gran Selezione classification, established just eleven years ago, has experienced significant expansion, evolving from a mere 33 labels to an impressive 187 estates now producing 245 distinct bottlings. This growth signifies a robust commitment to quality and diversity within the region. While premiumization is a natural progression, maintaining accessibility in pricing is crucial for the category's continued success and broader appeal. Many producers, regardless of their scale, are actively participating in this tier, contributing to its dynamic landscape.

Antinori, a historic and leading estate in the region, has notably introduced three new Gran Selezione wines this year, bringing their total to four. Each of these new offerings originates from a different Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGA), or Additional Geographic Unit. Unlike their high-volume Badia a Passignano bottling, these new releases from Gaiole, San Casciano, and Castellina are limited to just 5,000 bottles each. Dora Pacciani, Antinori's technical director, emphasizes that these exclusive wines are a testament to their passion and belief in the Chianti Classico region and the UGA project. The UGA initiative itself has been a significant force in elevating the region's profile, fostering better communication and promoting Gran Selezione over Riserva wines, as noted by Monica Raspi of Pomona.

Monica Raspi's decision to elevate her 'Omio Vigna Pomona' from Riserva to Gran Selezione, aligning with the category's regulations, reflects a broader trend. Her 2021 vintage is considered among the top selections. The latest Gran Selezione releases serve as a testament to the vintage's widespread success, showcasing a remarkable balance of richness, intricate structure with profound fruit flavors, distinctive character, and vibrant energy. Antinori's recent bottlings are particularly compelling, with the San Sano from Gaiole standing out as an exceptional example.

From the Gaiole UGA, Castello di Ama also presents an outstanding trio of wines. Their San Lorenzo is particularly noteworthy for its remarkable value. Meanwhile, Montefioralle's Terreno's Sillano exemplifies the elegance achievable at the highest tier of Chianti Classico. Equally striking is Isola delle Falcole's fifth vintage from a vineyard in the remote Panzano area. This marks the estate's sole Chianti Classico offering to date, and its positioning at the pinnacle of their portfolio is a deliberate choice by owner Emanuele Graetz. He views Gran Selezione as a powerful instrument to convey to the world that Chianti Classico represents a fine wine territory, firmly believing that the best of these wines will stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest Barolo and Burgundy, both in terms of quality and price.

While the 2021 wines are not necessarily austere, they could benefit from an additional year or two in the bottle, and most possess an aging potential of 10 to 15 years. Alongside the impressive 2021s, nascent 2022s were also showcased. The prevailing sentiment among producers is to extend the bottle aging for their Gran Selezione wines before release. Among those tasted, Castello di Volpaia's Coltassala and Castello di Querceto's La Corte admirably capture the essence of their respective vintages. A preview of Istine's collection, including two new Gran Selezione wines from Lamole and Vagliagli, offered a glimpse into promising future releases. It is important to note that these UGAs, similar to Montefioralle, will not be permitted on labels until 2027. This year also saw the release of several excellent 2020 and 2019 wines. From the 2020 vintage, Castello di Monsanto (San Donato in Poggio), I Fabbri (Lamole), and Monteraponi’s Il Bragantino (Radda), along with Rocca di Montegrossi 2019 Vigneto San Marcellino (Gaiole), are particularly noteworthy. Across this spectrum of vintages, it was gratifying to observe a movement towards celebrating terroir over mere style, and, crucially, a persistent freshness, even in progressively warmer years.

Discussions among winemakers reveal an increasing trend towards incorporating whole berries during fermentation. Sophie Conti at Tregole began experimenting with this technique in 2021 to soften her wines, discovering that it encourages a more delicate extraction. The result, she affirms, is a crunchier wine with brighter fruit. Altitude was another recurring theme. Under new ownership, Isole e Olena is currently developing a new terraced vineyard at 500 meters, the highest elevation on the estate. Furthermore, the secluded, high-altitude enclave of Lamole has become a hub of activity, with producers from outside the district securing small plots. Alongside Istine’s inaugural Elle bottling, Fontodi’s newest offering, Pastrolo, and Querciabella’s Gran Selezione now incorporate fruit from their recently acquired holdings in this esteemed area.