Coffee Culture
Paris's Flourishing Coffee Roasting Scene
2025-08-11

Paris, a city celebrated for its artistic heritage and captivating charm, is currently witnessing a remarkable evolution within its coffee landscape. Far removed from the conventional dark-roasted espresso once prevalent, the modern Parisian coffee aficionado seeks nuanced flavors and expertly prepared beverages, fueling a burgeoning specialty coffee movement. This shift is driven by a new generation of dedicated roasters who are not only elevating the quality of local coffee but also infusing it with innovative techniques and a global perspective. This transformation has positioned Paris as a significant hub for high-quality coffee, inviting both locals and visitors to explore a diverse and exciting range of roasted beans.

One notable player in this vibrant scene is Tanat, formerly known as Kawa. With its signature burnt orange coffee bags, Tanat has made a distinct mark in multi-roaster cafes worldwide. Thomas Clement, Tanat's head roaster, emphasizes that his role is not merely about control but about interpreting the inherent qualities of the beans. He believes in revealing the true potential of coffee through honest and intentional roasting. Clement's philosophy extends to embracing unconventional methods, such as co-fermentation, a process that yields a wide array of alternative coffees. He highlights that his curiosity drives him to explore new origins, varietals, and processing techniques, even those outside the established norms of specialty coffee. This adventurous approach has led him to discover exceptional lots from unexpected sources, prioritizing character and potential over merely "safe" options. Tanat operates three coffee shops across Paris and its coffees are widely available in numerous cafes and restaurants.

Another influential roaster is Belleville Brûlerie, co-founded by American expatriate David Flynn. Flynn's journey into Parisian coffee was serendipitous, arriving in the city to learn French and ultimately establishing a significant presence in its coffee community. Belleville draws inspiration from Paris itself, incorporating Art Deco branding and distinct blue work jackets for its staff, aiming to reflect a unique French aesthetic. Flynn credits France's rich culinary history as a key influence, seeking to apply its principles to specialty coffee. A core aspect of Belleville's approach is its focus on high-quality blends, mirroring the consistency and artistry found in cognac production. This emphasis on blending does not detract from their commitment to sourcing; Belleville's roasting team actively travels to establish long-term relationships with coffee producers, exemplified by their continuous partnership with Cup of Excellence winner Benjamin Paz from Honduras since his inaugural harvest. Belleville Brûlerie's coffees are distributed across a variety of Parisian establishments, including renowned brunch spots like HolyBelly, and can also be found at their roastery's boutique.

Partisan, co-founded by Georges Karam, initially roasted all its coffee within its 3rd Arrondissement cafe, a practice soon to change as they transition to a dedicated roasting facility. This new space will not only accommodate their growing operations but also serve as a hub for training, cuppings, and conferences. Karam draws inspiration from dynamic coffee scenes in cities like Portland and San Francisco, while also integrating his Lebanese heritage, where coffee plays a deeply ingrained social role. Although Partisan offers light-roasted single-origin espresso, Karam also provides a more traditional, darker espresso blend to cater to a wider audience, demonstrating his adaptability and commitment to appealing to diverse tastes. Partisan's commitment to both innovative and traditional approaches ensures its continued relevance in the evolving Parisian coffee scene.

KB Coffee Roasters, and its sister establishment Back in Black, founded by Nico Piègay, have had a profound impact on Paris's coffee culture. Starting as a small neighborhood coffee shop in South Pigalle in 2010, KB Coffee Roasters quickly became a local favorite by offering coffees they were passionate about. In 2019, Piègay expanded with Back in Black, a full-service restaurant that combines a large coffee shop with an on-site roasting workshop. This move allowed them to explore new possibilities and push boundaries, integrating the entire coffee experience under one roof. Despite having different branding and service models, both establishments share a unified vision and the same dedication to quality coffee. Their dual presence caters to various customer preferences, solidifying their influence on the city's coffee landscape.

Coutume, founded by Australian émigré Tom Clark, has been a significant force in Paris's coffee transformation over the past 15 years. Clark, who initially moved to France as an exchange student, recognized the historical importance of Parisian cafe culture, which dates back to the 17th century. He was driven to introduce the dynamic and quality-focused coffee culture he experienced in Australia to Paris, believing that specialty coffee aligned perfectly with the French 'art de vivre.' Today, Coutume operates 10 cafes across Paris, demonstrating the successful integration of specialty coffee into modern Parisian life. Clark envisions specialty coffee expanding beyond its current niche, becoming a major cornerstone of French coffee culture. His long-standing commitment has helped shape consumer demand, ensuring that specialty coffee continues to thrive and innovate within the city.

Bonjour Jacob, founded by Hani Belahcene, began as a reflection of his personal interests, encompassing independent magazines, limited vinyl releases, and specialty coffee. Located in the vibrant Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood, the shop features an array of international roasters, including notable names like Friedhats from the Netherlands and Mok Coffee from Belgium. Belahcene has now launched his own roasting brand, Canal Street Roaster, showcasing his readiness to compete with Europe's most respected brands. Bonjour Jacob's commitment to quality is evident in their expertly roasted and prepared offerings, such as an anaerobic Gesha from San Pedro, Colombia. Additionally, their sister shop, Hari Beans, offers extensive home brewing equipment and a dedicated space for training and education, further cementing their role in fostering coffee appreciation in Paris.

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