Sherman Thacher, a winemaker rooted in a rich family tradition of experiential learning, has carved a distinctive path in the Paso Robles wine region. His journey, marked by an early fascination with fermentation and a bold shift from brewing to winemaking, led to the creation of Thacher Winery & Vineyard. The winery's guiding principle has evolved over time, moving from an initial focus on traditional red varietals to an embrace of diverse grapes and a minimalist intervention approach. This philosophy champions the inherent qualities of the fruit, resulting in wines that express vibrancy and authenticity. Thacher's commitment to continuous learning and exploration, alongside his wife Michele, has not only shaped their unique winemaking style but also set the stage for the next generation, ensuring a legacy of passion and innovation in the Californian wine landscape.

The transformation of Thacher Winery is a testament to the dynamic nature of winemaking and the pursuit of individual expression. What began with a conventional approach in Paso Robles' bold red wine scene gradually shifted towards a lighter, more natural style, ignited by a serendipitous experiment with Viognier. This pivotal moment led Thacher to question conventional cellar manipulations, inspiring a winemaking philosophy that prioritizes purity and vineyard expression. The winery now produces a diverse portfolio of wines, each reflecting a commitment to minimal intervention and a deep respect for the grape's natural character. This dedication to crafting fresh and lively wines, even across different varietals, highlights Thacher's enduring curiosity and his belief in the inherent beauty of unadulterated fruit, leaving an exciting legacy for future generations, including his son Cody, who is already actively involved in the winery's operations.

The Genesis of a Winemaking Philosophy

Sherman Thacher's path to winemaking was unconventional, shaped by a blend of unique educational experiences and an innate curiosity. Growing up surrounded by nature on an orange orchard in Ojai, he developed an appreciation for hands-on learning, a value instilled by his family's legacy, including his great-grandfather's founding of the Thacher School. This non-traditional upbringing continued through his high school years, where he lived in log cabins and chopped wood for heat, further grounding him in self-sufficiency and resourcefulness. His introduction to winemaking wasn't through formal enology studies, but rather through informal exposure to student-made beer and wine during his time at the University of California at Davis. This early encounter sparked an interest that would eventually lead him from a career as a brewmaster to pursuing his true calling in wine. By 1993, he crafted his first Zinfandel with a friend, marking the initial steps of a significant career transition, as wine progressively became his primary focus after a decade in brewing.

The early 2000s saw Thacher and his wife leaving Silicon Valley for Paso Robles, acquiring land in the Adelaida District in 2004 and relocating there two years later. His inaugural vintage, produced from purchased grapes, was in 2004. By 2006, Thacher recognized the necessity of a physical winery and tasting room to cultivate a sustainable business and connect directly with consumers. He candidly admits that the initial learning curve was steep, but his commitment to the craft was unwavering. Their land purchase, Kentucky Ranch, was once a Quarter horse breeding facility and later a horse rescue program, located in the limestone-rich hills of Paso Robles' Adelaida District. Planted in 2007, this untouched land proved ideal for cultivating structured wines, particularly Rhône varietals and Zinfandel, laying the groundwork for Thacher Winery's future. This blend of unconventional education, practical experience, and a deep connection to the land ultimately defined his foundational approach to winemaking.

Evolution and the Future of Thacher Wines

Thacher Winery & Vineyard, under Sherman Thacher's innovative guidance, currently produces around 20 different wines, embodying a blend of exploration and intentionality. Initially, before his marriage, Thacher and his future wife frequently visited Paso Robles for wine tastings, often gravitating towards the Zinfandels that were then prevalent in the region. Thacher reflects that in the early stages of contemplating a winery in Paso Robles, his vision was predominantly centered around creating multiple distinct Zinfandel expressions. While his early winemaking efforts did concentrate on Zinfandel and Syrah, his innate curiosity, coupled with the evolving winemaking landscape of the region, significantly broadened his perspective. The rise of Rhône varietals, notably influenced by producers like Tablas Creek, inspired Thacher to expand his portfolio to include Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Viognier, among others. This pivotal shift marked the beginning of a deliberate move towards a more diverse and extensive wine selection.

A transformative moment for Thacher occurred in 2013 when a surplus of Viognier, unsold and contracted for the following year, prompted an unplanned experiment. Seeking advice from a friend in Santa Cruz on making sparkling wine, Thacher learned about ideal ripeness levels for bubbles. He picked the Viognier accordingly, sending most of it for tirage bottling. A 60-gallon drum of the wine, however, remained in his cellar, developing into a surprisingly vibrant non-vintage bottling. This unexpected outcome, a bright, lively, and energetic wine due to its early picking, became an epiphany for Thacher. It fundamentally reshaped his winemaking philosophy, leading him to realize the immense potential of earlier harvest dates to capture freshness and vitality. This realization spurred a broader shift, initially with white wines, and then extending to reds. Thacher's current approach prioritizes natural fermentations, avoiding added water, nutrients, acid, or enzymes, with only minimal effective SO2. He firmly believes that everything necessary for exceptional wine is present in the grape if harvested at the opportune moment. Winemaker Josh Beckett, a long-time acquaintance, praises Thacher's creative and experimental nature, noting his focus on fruit and vineyard expression, sometimes almost to a fault. This evolving philosophy now guides the winery's diverse lineup, each wine showcasing Thacher's commitment to purity and his belief in allowing the fruit to express itself without undue manipulation. Thacher finds immense satisfaction in observing guests discover the distinct character of each wine in his diverse portfolio, often remarking on their freshness and liveliness. For him, the goal is not to produce low-alcohol wines, but to create high-quality wines that naturally require minimal intervention, allowing the grapes' inherent qualities to shine through.

Acknowledgement of the experimental nature of his path is something Thacher embraces, likening his journey to other winemakers who delve deep into particular varietals or methods. He humorously admits to a slight addiction to this exploratory process, finding it difficult to cease learning and discovering the endless possibilities in winemaking. The future of Thacher Winery is also taking shape through the active involvement of his 16-year-old son, Cody. From the tender age of nine, Cody has participated in five vintages, assisting with harvest and fruit sorting. Thacher fondly recalls his wife driving their minivan to the winery, with Cody eagerly dashing out to participate in punchdowns and even squeezing in another before dinner. Thacher invested in a small press for Cody, which he meticulously maintains. Over the past five years, this small block, nicknamed the C-Block, consisting of approximately 80 own-rooted, dry-farmed mixed varietals, has produced varying yields, from half a barrel to a full barrel each vintage. Despite the increasing demands of high school and sports, Cody's foundation in winemaking is firmly established. Thacher continues to approach winemaking as an ongoing learning experience, constantly experimenting and allowing the vineyard to guide his decisions, eagerly anticipating the unwritten chapters of Thacher Winery's future.