This comprehensive report offers an insightful exploration into the current state of natural wines, stemming from a critical re-evaluation at the prestigious VinNatur annual exhibition. It highlights the significant strides made by producers in crafting high-quality, authentic natural wines, while also addressing persistent challenges related to inconsistencies. The analysis underscores the dedication of the natural wine movement to continuous improvement and sets a promising outlook for its future trajectory.

The Re-Evaluation of Natural Wines at VinNatur

In the vibrant spring of last year, a profound journey into the world of natural wines commenced at the annual VinNatur exhibition, nestled in the picturesque region of Gambellara, northern Italy. The initial exploration aimed to scrutinize the assertion that 'natural wines don't stink'. A return visit this year offered an invaluable opportunity for a more rigorous and critical assessment.

During this recent visit, the author participated in a specialized workshop organized by VinNatur, dedicated to identifying wine faults. This immersive experience, attended by producers, wine professionals, and enthusiasts alike, served to recalibrate the palate's sensitivity. It became clear that while the author possesses a notable tolerance for certain characteristics like volatile acidity and Brettanomyces, an acute sensitivity and zero tolerance for 'mousiness' (goût de souris) emerged. This refreshed perspective then informed a comprehensive tasting and engagement with various winemakers.

Over a period of two days, approximately 150 natural wines were meticulously evaluated. The VinNatur event is renowned for assembling Italy's foremost natural winemakers. Among the esteemed participants were historic figures such as Filippi from Soave, a pioneer in natural winemaking long before the term gained widespread recognition, and Angiolino Maule, the president of VinNatur and a foundational figure in the natural wine movement within Veneto. Marinella Camerani's Corte Sant'Alda estate in Val di Mezzane was noted as one of the very first, if not the first, to adopt biodynamic viticulture in Veneto. Camillo Donati in Emilia demonstrated the serious potential of Lambrusco when produced naturally. In Alto Adige, PIWI pioneer Thomas Niedermayr stood out as a leading authority on disease-resistant grape varieties. Furthermore, in Piedmont, Fratelli Barale, one of Barolo's most established and respected traditional producers, also showcased their natural wines. The iconic Marsala producer Marco de Bartoli presented the inaugural vintages from his new Mount Etna estate.

The wines from these distinguished producers consistently met the highest expectations, proving their excellence in any context. However, VinNatur's significant contribution extends beyond featuring prominent names. A crucial role of the association is to provide a vital platform for micro-producers who might otherwise struggle for visibility. This year's event boasted over 200 exhibitors, with 90 of them managing less than six hectares of vineyards. These smaller producers often act as custodians of heritage, such as Etnea, nurturing 100-year-old vines on Mount Etna, and Pasquale Bonamici from Mamoiada, who is diligently preserving rare native Sardinian varietals from extinction. Others, like Rok in Val d’Isarco, have achieved cult status, with their 16,000 bottles of Alto Adige whites becoming highly sought after.

While the small-scale nature of these producers can be charming, it also presents unique challenges. Technical inconsistencies were more frequently observed among these artisan producers. Although the vast majority of the natural wines tasted were impeccable, and some were truly exhilarating, a certain number exhibited qualities that could be considered flawed to varying degrees. Some displayed excessive volatile acidity, while others showed more Brettanomyces than tolerable. There were rare but particularly insidious cases of 'mousiness'. A few bottles, despite being imperfect, possessed redeeming qualities, but a handful presented glaring faults that obscured all other attributes. Additionally, there were numerous 'challenging' wines – complex and multi-layered, with unfamiliar flavors and aromas that were either intriguing or alienating, though mostly intriguing.

These observations were openly discussed with Maule, who acknowledged that while natural wines should not inherently 'stink,' some regrettably do. He affirmed that the association recognizes areas for improvement and actively collaborates with producers to mitigate common issues. This commitment is fulfilled through technical support for members and funding research programs specifically focused on natural winemaking challenges. As Maule aptly puts it, "It is ten times more difficult to make natural wines." Working with spontaneous fermentation, minimal manipulation, and without additives (beyond limited sulphite doses) exposes these wines to greater risks compared to those made following conventional oenological protocols. Nevertheless, the era where flawed wines could be justified simply by being 'natural' is firmly behind us.

Today, the expectation for natural winemakers is not to produce faulty wines, but rather transparent expressions of their terroir, imbued with a vitality that inspires them to embrace the inherent challenges of this unique craft.

The natural wine movement is not merely a trend; it is a profound commitment to authenticity and terroir expression. While the path to perfection is arduous, the dedication of producers, supported by associations like VinNatur, ensures a future where natural wines are celebrated not just for their purity but for their exceptional quality and the captivating stories they tell.