Discover the Intersection of Music, Culture, and Style
Cultural Narratives Through Design
In his autumn/winter 2025 collection, Foday Dumbuya presented a powerful statement on cultural fusion. The designer’s vision was clear: amplify the stories and journeys that define African history as part of global heritage. At Abbey Road Studios, Dumbuya delivered a moving speech during London Fashion Week, underscoring the invaluable contributions of immigrants to UK society. His collection seamlessly merged British and West African tailoring, creating a visual dialogue between two worlds.
The garments were a testament to this duality. Muted sandy hues complemented loose-fitting denim adorned with artistic sunshine motifs. Each piece told a story, from the subtle nods to traditional craftsmanship to the bold reinterpretations of classic styles. This collection wasn’t just about fashion; it was a celebration of identity and belonging.
A Celebration of Afro-Textured Hair
One of the most striking elements of the presentation was the innovative styling of afro-textured hair. Hairstylist Nick Irwin took inspiration from iconic textured hair iconography, blending tradition with modernity. Bantu knots transformed into towering pillars of synthetic wavy and coily hair, smoothed with an iron for a polished finish. Freeform locs accessorized with dangling beads added an extra layer of elegance, while elevated cornrows weaved in geometric patterns spilled out in braided cylinders.
Irwin emphasized the concept of negative space, playing with stronger silhouettes typical of autumn/winter collections. Drawing from late '90s and early 2000s references like Lauryn Hill, he incorporated hair cuffs and braids left slightly undone at the ends, giving them a contemporary twist. The goal was to keep the styling fresh and grounded in realism, ensuring that Labrum remained true to its storytelling roots.
Grime Artists Elevate the Experience
Beyond the clothing and hairstyles, the performances by notable grime artists added an electrifying dimension to the event. Akala, Wretch 32, Ghetts, and D Double E brought their unique energy to the stage, reminding everyone of the genre’s profound impact on British culture. Grime music has always been more than just entertainment; it’s a voice for the marginalized, a platform for social commentary, and a bridge between communities.
The performances highlighted the symbiotic relationship between fashion and music. Both forms of expression are deeply rooted in storytelling, and together they created a powerful narrative that resonated with the audience. The synergy between the visuals and the sounds underscored the interconnectedness of art and culture, reinforcing the message that African history is indeed global history.
Make-Up That Celebrates Natural Beauty
Jessica DeBruyne led the make-up team, using products from Refy and S’able Labs to enhance every model’s natural beauty. The focus was on highlighting the richness of melanin-rich skin, ensuring that each look felt authentic and aligned with Labrum’s ethos. The result was a seamless blend of African cultural aesthetics and contemporary Western fashion.
The make-up not only complemented the garments but also reinforced the brand’s commitment to inclusivity and diversity. By celebrating the beauty of melanin-rich skin, DeBruyne and her team contributed to a broader conversation about representation and visibility in the fashion industry. This approach resonated with the audience, creating a lasting impression that went beyond the runway.