Colour has a transformative effect like no other. To put it to the test, ELLE asked 6 up-and-coming makeup artists to use the same Chanel makeup collection to create without boundaries, a look that speaks to their unique vision.
Colour is a powerful channel to express our inner selves. It has the ability to change how we feel, empower us from within, even change who we want to be that day. This is the thinking behind Chanel Beauty’s Cometes Collective, a group of three rising star makeup artists who are set to make up reshape how we think about colour. Chanel’s Spring 2024 Makeup Collection collection is the first line to come from the Cometes Collective – and we can’t get enough. From the beautiful blue eye shadow quad, coral blush duo and lip lacquers, to the gold-flecked shimmering skin balm and blue tinged powder highlighter, this collection is filled with things to add to our makeup kit.
To put the concept of colour to the test, we asked six up-and-coming makeup artists to use Chanel’s Spring 2024 collection to create a look that is all their own. Shot by the incredibly talented Eddie New, the images are a beautiful deep dive into creativity and the powerful and transformative effect of colour. With special guest, Chanel Makeup Artist Victoria Baron on set, each of the makeup artists spoke candidly about the role of colour in their work and life. Here are 3 of those artists.
Makeup artist: Carly Lim
Unafraid to use the face as a canvas, Carly Lim is a makeup artist who likes to push boundaries. “Her makeup looks tell compelling stories and serve a distinct purpose,” says Baron.
Victoria Baron: You’re pushing the boundaries of creativity and seeing products in different ways. Can you talk us through your look?
Carly Lim: The star symbol is very special to Chanel so that was my starting point. I like to brainstorm and get keywords when I’m creating a look. That centrally negative space pattern was interesting so that was another layer that I wanted to explore.
VB: That inverted space which, instead of using a stencil to put the makeup into a shape, you use a stencil to create bare space is beautiful. How would someone go about doing this at home?
CL: I am such a lover of craft. I collect bits and pieces of everything. For this look, anything that has a great shape – like a sequin or confetti – would work, you just add the color around it, peel it off and achieve that beautiful shape. I used a brush so that I could get the edge as clean as possible, but fingers would be fine too. The Les Ombres eyeshadow palette that I used works perfectly using brushes or fingers – the little sponge applicator included was great for pressing in the glittery shadow.
VB: Can you talk us through the beautiful ombre lip you created?
CL: I used the Rouge Allure Lacque Lipsticks. I love that formula. It’s so lovely to wear and the finish is really unique, I haven’t found any other products similar to it. When it first came out, I was really surprised because, at the time, the liquid lipstick formulas were all quite one note. But this one is different, it’s creamy and comfortable, and also highly pigmented yet you can still see the skin of the lips. It hugs the lips nicely.
Chanel Rouge Allure Lacque Lipsticks in Sea Shell, $72 at Chanel
Chanel Rouge Allure Lacque Lipsticks in Sea Star, $72 at Chanel
VB: Is there a product that you felt inspired by or is something that you would use in your kit?
CL: I really was very delighted by the lip products. I also love the powder, it’s something that I have been looking for, it’s really refined.
Chanel Exclusive Creation in Lumiere de L’Ocean highlighter, $105 at Chanel
VB: You have created a bold work. If people feel nervous to play with color, is there anything that you could suggest to inspire other people to be more creative?
CL: Colour can be daunting and that’s totally fair, colour has so much meaning behind it. But as an adult, makeup is a great avenue to be imaginative. Even if at the end of the day before you’re about to have a shower, try something new. You’re going to wash it off anyway.
VB: Is there anything that really inspires you to create makeup looks?
CL: I try to stay open, it can be a word, the sentence I read in a book or the texture of a leaf, or it might be the mood board or a certain character. If you remain open, I think lots of things can jump out at you.
@carlylim_makeup
Makeup artist: Samantha Patrikopoulos
Like a fine art painter, Samantha Patrikopoulos is highly tuned at clever colour placement. “She has a flair for colour placement, application, and blending with precision,” says Baron.
Victoria Baron: You have such a creative flair in everything you do. You can do something that’s really editorial and creative, but there’s still such a softness and it’s very touchable and very relatable. Your look is colour all over the face, but there is still an element of [the viewer] thinking “I wonder how I could wear that?” How did you get to this amazing image?
Samantha Patrikopoulos: I was thinking about sunsets and how in the early morning you see the clouds and it’s like an orange sky but there’s a bit of blue and grey and everything just feels really soft. I wanted to translate that to the look. Because the model, Venus, has freckles and quite a unique look, I wanted to do something quite editorial, where you could still see all her freckles with a soft sheerness
VB: What are some techniques that you use to be able to create that sunset effect? Using bright colors is often a lot quite daunting for people. How did you apply all those colors together and make it still look soft and beautiful?
SP: The creamy and pigmented products were key. Even though they’re a powder, I mostly just pressed them in with my fingertips to get that soft edge and did it in a quite organic way so that I could see that it suited her and followed the lines on her face.
Chanel Les Ombres eyeshadow quad in Rivage, $112 at Chanel
VB: How did you go about deciding your color placement and where you where you put those colors?
SP: For this one, I did a face chart. I don’t often, usually I am a bit more intuitive. Usually, what I like to do is start with the colors that are in the skin and put those down first. There is a lot of pink in your skin so I put that into place first. Then I added the orange, then the blue was more here and there to tie it all together.
Chanel Exclusive Creation in Roses Coquillage Duo Blush, $110 at Chanel
VB: If someone wanted to turn this look into something a bit more wearable, what’s a way that they could do that?
SP: You could still use the same colors maybe just on the eyelid. One color as a highlight and then one color underneath in the lash line. Or even different colors on each eyelid. Just have a lot of fun with it; there’s not really a right or wrong way to do makeup as long as you feel good and confident.
VB: Where do you find inspiration for creating all your makeup looks?
SP: I watch a lot of movies, and if there’s a character that I’m really obsessed with, or a person, I like to think of them in different scenarios. Maybe in the movie, they’re walking in a desert, and I think, “well that’s cool, but what would they look like if they went out for dinner?” Or “what would they look like with this scenario?” And I think that’s a really nice way of building up looks. Or even just being out and about, like, sometimes you’ll see someone that’s like, really sunburn across their face, or their cheeks or their forehead and you’re like, oh, that’s like, that’s a cool idea for a blush. And then you’re like, well, what about if it was blue…?
VB: Is there anything in the collection that you is going into your kit from this collection
SP: Yes, it’s that mermaid highlight stick. I have the original, and I love it but just to be able to work with that kind of iridescent tone and be able to play with highlights on someone’s face but with that extra element is really interesting.
@samanthap_
Makeup artist: Nisha Vanberkel
From corporate type to professional makeup artist, Nisha Vanberkel is all about precision and light touch. “Nisha believes in the impact of restrained application, recognising that less can often speak volumes,” says Baron.
Victoria Baron: Your makeup style is so beautifully considered. You celebrate colour and shape, but it’s always in this beautiful, subtle way. How did you go about choosing the products you’ve used?
Nisha Vanberkel: My inspiration was Annalise’s skin. As soon as I saw her, the mood board I had prepared went out the window. I thought, “I just want to use a couple of products to showcase her best features; her skin and eyes”. I used the Baume Essential balm all over and I used just the one orange tone from the Les Ombres in Coral Treasure eye palette to bring out the blue in her eyes.
Chanel Les Ombres in Coral Treasure, $112 at Chanel
VB: Can you tell us about how you got into the fashion industry?
NV: After I had kids, I didn’t want to go back to do an accounting job so I did a makeup course and I started doing special occasion makeup and bridal. I was already in my 30s when I did the course, amongst 16-18 year olds who were already so good. It was all new to me but the more I got into the industry, the more obsessed I got. This is from someone like me that never wore any makeup, nor did my mum or anyone around me. It was a whole new world.
VB: People don’t always get to do something that they’re passionate about. It’s a really unique space to be; not everyone gets that.
NV: I think the best part is collaborating with people in the industry. It’s like a family. It’s so nice to work with other creators. I think in fashion, that’s the best part; collaborating with the other creatives.
VB: Is there something in the in the collection that you feel like you would use every day in your care?
NV: The Baume Essentiel Balm. It’s so versatile. I used this product straight onto the skin. I could use it with my fingers, especially on the lids of the eye. And then I got a little fluffy brush to apply, which is amazing because some products only work with the heat from your fingers.
Chanel Baume Essentiel in Mermaid Glow, $74 at Chanel
VB: What inspires you?
NV: I think that’s a really important point with makeup is that you, you look at someone’s face, and you’re excited about an element of the face. Everyone loves Annalise’s freckles.
VB: It’s sort of a lesson in the things that you might not necessarily find beautiful yourself. It’s a really positive way of looking at makeup application.
@NishaVanberkelmakeup
Chanel Spring 2024 Makeup Collection is available now at chanel.com.au