In a remarkable return to the origins of Hubert de Givenchy’s iconic fashion house, Clare Waight Keller has embarked on an exploration of the designer’s first collection from 1952. Inspired by black-and-white photographs and archival patterns discovered during renovations, she reflects on the simplicity and camaraderie that defined Givenchy's debut. This journey has led her to create a new collection that pays homage to the past while embracing modernity.

A New Chapter for Givenchy

In the heart of Paris, in a mansion on rue Alfred de Vigny, history is being revisited. Clare Waight Keller, creative director of Givenchy, was captivated by the youthful energy and purity of design in Hubert de Givenchy’s inaugural show. The couturier, just 25 at the time, presented a collection marked by its clean lines and simplicity, a stark contrast to the ornate styles of the era. Among the models was Bettina Graziani, who also worked in the press office, symbolizing the close-knit community within the fashion house.

The discovery of archival patterns hidden within the walls of the historic mansion during renovation was nothing short of serendipitous. These treasures, now being restored, confirmed Keller’s belief that Givenchy’s early work was rooted in simplicity and elegance. While not directly replicating these designs, Keller has drawn inspiration from their essence, focusing on silhouette and structure.

The new collection features dresses that seem to defy gravity—strapless puff balls of tulle and ultra-mini dresses with no ornamentation. This minimalist approach echoes the post-war aesthetic of Givenchy’s early years. Keller emphasizes the importance of cut, dedicating herself to defining the perfect shoulder, waist, and pant shape for her contemporary vision of Givenchy.

In this new chapter, Keller draws parallels between Givenchy’s collaboration with Audrey Hepburn and her own partnerships with celebrities like Cate Blanchett and Rooney Mara. Her commitment to understanding the roots of fashion has been instrumental in shaping this innovative yet respectful reinterpretation of the brand.

From a journalist's perspective, this collection represents a beautiful blend of heritage and innovation. It reminds us that fashion is not just about trends but about understanding and honoring the past while moving forward with creativity and purpose. Clare Waight Keller’s work at Givenchy stands as a testament to the power of legacy and the importance of staying true to one’s roots while embracing the future.