Wine and Spirits
Reviving Saperavi: A Journey of Cultural Exchange and Winemaking Innovation
2025-03-26

A unique collaboration between two wine enthusiasts has sparked a movement to bridge the winemaking traditions of Georgia and the United States. Lasha Tsatava, a beverage director from New York, and Erika Frey, a wine educator, discovered their shared passion for the ancient grape variety Saperavi over a bottle of wine. This chance encounter led them to establish Saperica, an initiative aimed at fostering cross-cultural discussions about viticulture and winemaking techniques.

The origins of Saperavi trace back to Kakheti, a renowned wine region in Georgia where winemaking dates back thousands of years. Known as the most significant black grape in Georgian viticulture, Saperavi is traditionally used for both single-variety wines and blends, often aged in qvevri—large clay amphorae specific to Georgian winemaking. Through Saperica, Tsatava and Frey aim to introduce this rich history to New York's growers and winemakers through educational programs and exchange trips. The groundwork for this endeavor was laid by Konstantin Frank, a pioneering viticulturist who introduced Saperavi to the Finger Lakes region in the late 1950s.

In recent years, the potential of Saperavi has gained recognition among U.S. winemakers. Meaghan Frank, Konstantin’s great-granddaughter and vice president of Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, notes that the grape’s adaptability to cold climates and its ability to produce full-bodied red wines make it an ideal choice for the Finger Lakes. César Vega, cofounder of Barbichette, another natural wine producer, highlights Saperavi's versatility, producing wines with high acidity and intense color. Despite challenges such as frost conditions, Saperavi continues to captivate consumers and winemakers alike. Its resilience in the face of climate change ensures its place in the future of American viticulture.

Saperavi represents not only a bridge between cultures but also an opportunity for innovation and growth in the wine industry. Initiatives like Saperica’s annual Saperavi Festival bring together winemakers from both Georgia and New York, promoting this ancient grape to a wider audience. By embracing Saperavi, New York winemakers can carve out a distinct identity in the competitive U.S. market. This journey underscores the power of collaboration and cultural exchange in preserving heritage while driving progress in the world of wine.

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