The History Behind the Iconic Hermès Kelly Bag

Trends come and go, but a select few iconic pieces have consistently stood the test of time. Consider the Hermès Birkin (introduced in 1984), the Chanel Classic Flap (1955), the Gucci Jackie (1961), and The Lady Dior (1995); these are not merely accessories, but pieces of fashion history. These handbags routinely appear on lists highlighting “it-bags,” “best investment bags,” and “most classic bags” a testament to their unwavering popularity and iconic status. However, it’s important to acknowledge the original that set the stage for all others: the Hermès Kelly. Introduced in 1935, the Kelly bag pioneered the concept of the luxury “it-bag.”

Origins of the Kelly Bag

Let’s do a brief deep-dive on the history of Hermès. The brand was established in 1837 by Thierry Hermès, initially starting as a harness workshop (hence the ever-present equestrian influence.) In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, under the leadership of Thierry’s son, Charles-Émile Hermès, the company expanded its product range to include saddlery and began retailing at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, which remains its flagship store today. 

The 1930s marked a pivotal period for Hermès, with Émile Hermès’ son-in-law, Robert Dumas, joining the business. Dumas was instrumental in diversifying the brand’s offerings, introducing some of Hermès’ most iconic creations, like the silk scarf, Chaîne d’Ancre bracelet, and the revolutionary Sac à Dépêches, later known as the Kelly bag. His vision and creativity during this period significantly shaped the brand’s identity, cementing its status in the luxury goods market.

The introduction of the Sac à Dépêches was revolutionary for the time. Drawing inspiration from the Haut à Courroies (HAC) bag, designed for equestrian gear, Dumas reimagined it into the more compact Sac à Dépêches. Known for its distinctive trapezoid shape, single handle, and strap closures with a center toggle, the Kelly bag represented a significant departure from the era’s smaller purses, essentially creating the first modern “handbag” as we know it. Each Kelly bag, handcrafted by a single artisan over 18 to 25 hours, showcases Hermès’ commitment to exclusivity and craftsmanship, available in various sizes, colors, and materials, including luxurious leathers and exotic skins.

Grace Kelly’s Influence 

Twenty years after the Hermès Sac à Dépêches was first designed, it landed the role of a lifetime in the glamorous world of cinema. The 1955 Alfred Hitchcock classic, “To Catch a Thief,” featured this iconic piece, thanks to 8-time Academy Award-winning costume designer, Edith Head. The film, starring Hollywood legends Cary Grant and Grace Kelly, became a backdrop for showcasing luxury and style. Grace Kelly’s character, Frances Stevens, a wealthy American heiress vacationing on the French Riviera, epitomized 1950s glamor.

Her wardrobe, filled with stunning gowns and chic ensembles, mirrored her sophisticated and affluent lifestyle, attending high-society events and staying at the finest hotels. Understanding the need for Frances’s accessories to reflect her status, Edith Head selected the Hermes Sac à Dépêches to complement Kelly’s character. This decision not only highlighted Frances’s wealth but also marked the beginning of the bag’s journey into fashion history.

At the time, Grace Kelly was one of the most famous figures worldwide. Her fondness for the Sac à Dépêches was so great that rumors swirled about her refusal to part with the bag even after filming concluded. In a turn of events mirroring a story straight out of Hollywood, Kelly transitioned from the silver screen’s royalty to actual monarchy by marrying Prince Rainier III of Monaco in 1956. The world was captivated by this real-life fairy tale, with the paparazzi desperate to capture every moment of the couple’s life. The fascination with Kelly’s new royal life reached a peak when she was photographed in 1956 using the Hermès Sac à Dépêches bag to hide her pregnancy bump. This iconic image graced the cover of Life magazine and catapulted the bag to unprecedented fame, marking its evolution into the world’s first “it-bag.” Women worldwide flooded Hermès boutiques looking for the “Kelly Bag.” Hermés officially renamed the bag in 1977.

Breaking Down the Bag 

Now that we’ve gone over the history behind the bag let’s break things down even further. First things first, the Kelly Bag has two different styles: Sellier and Retourne. 

The Hermès Kelly Sellier, the bag’s original style, pays homage to the brand’s equestrian heritage with its name, “Sellier,” meaning saddler in French. Characterized by its visible stitching and pronounced edges, the Kelly Sellier showcases the meticulous craftsmanship synonymous with Hermès. Artisans stitch the bag from the outside in, finishing it with a resin edge coat that ensures sharp, clean lines and a polished finish. The Sellier’s distinct structure and rigidity are attributed to the use of hard leathers, such as the durable Epsom leather or the classic Box leather. These materials not only contribute to the bag’s longevity but also help maintain its iconic trapezoidal shape.

The Kelly Retourne is the more relaxed version of the Kelly bag. The term “Retourne,” meaning “to turn over” in French, aptly describes the bag’s construction process. In contrast to the Sellier, the Retourne is crafted with the stitching on the inside before being turned outward, meaning the stitching is not visible. As opposed to the resin edges on the Sellier, the Kelly Retourne has leather piping along the sides, and the edges are rounded giving it a more relaxed shape. The leather used for the Retourne is softer and more supple, such as the Togo or the Clemence. Due to the softness in the leather Retourne Kelly bags tend to be or become slouchier and have a more casual look.

The sizing of the Hermès Kelly bag is determined by the length of its base, for example, the Kelly 32, which measures 32 centimeters across. The sizes range from 15 to 50. The Kelly 15 and 20 are categorized as mini bags, ideal for evening wear or light day use. 

On the other end of the spectrum, the Kelly 40 and 50 serve as large travel bags. For daily use, the Kelly 25 and 28 are the most sought-after sizes, striking a balance between functionality and elegance. Each Kelly bag is thoughtfully equipped with a matching crossbody strap, enhancing its utility and offering varied ways to wear it. Each style is available in an array of colors, leathers, and hardware—classic Kelly’s are made with either gold or palladium hardware. Of course, this is Hermès and there is the option (if you’re lucky) to special order. Which opens up a whole other world of hardware options, leathers, colors, and sizes.

Now that we’ve explored the distinct styles, construction methods, and sizing options of the Hermès Kelly bag, it’s clear that this iconic piece is more than just an accessory. With such a wide array of choices, selecting the perfect Kelly bag can seem daunting. To aid in this decision, we turned to an expert in the field.

We asked Kelly McSweeney, Senior Merchandising Manager at The RealReal, to share her thoughts on the different sizes, extensive leather, and hardware combinations. McSweeney shares, “I think the size 25 is the perfect size. It’s still a smaller bag, but fits all of your daily necessities and can comfortably be worn crossbody, so one could argue that this is a ‘practical’ purchase. The mini size 20 is definitely the most sought after and the prices reflect that.

For leathers, they really are all beautiful and of the highest quality, but Togo and Epsom leathers would be more durable and resistant to scratches, so would give me peace of mind for everyday wear. For hardware, I would say that gold is most often in the highest demand. And for leather color, I think brown (named Gold) is the chicest classic option, and you can of course never go wrong with black. Hermes makes such beautiful rich colors that the pinks and greens/blues are often quite sought after as well. Lastly, I would also recommend vintage! The vintage Kelly bags are unbelievably special and showcase how iconic and long-standing this style really is.” 

Variations of the Kelly Bag 

Hermès, a brand synonymous with unparalleled luxury and exclusivity, has crafted an array of iterations of the iconic Kelly bag. Below, we will explore the diverse range of Kelly styles that continue to captivate fashion lovers and collectors, including those still in production and highly sought-after limited-edition pieces that have become coveted treasures.

To kick off this list we turned to our favorite “chief bag officer” and the brains behind @y2kbags on Instagram about their favorite version of the Kelly Bag. “I love the Hermes Kelly Lakis Bag! Introduced in 2004, it comes in 4 different sizes which include 28, 32, 35, and 40. The Kelly Lakis came to fruition after a VIP customer, Lakis Gavalas, requested the iconic bag with external pockets featured in the front and back. Fast forward 2 years, and with Jean Paul Gaultier as creative Director, the bag was released to the public! I love this design because I think of it as utilitarian chic. I’ve been so obsessed with the concept of the cargo bag, and this style of the Kelly serves exactly that purpose! This style comes in an array of colors and materials, including leather and toile. This is definitely a Kelly to covet and fetches a fairly high resale value in the secondary market depending on condition.” 

The Kelly Pochette

The Hermès Kelly Pochette, a hallmark of Jean Paul Gaultier’s first collection for Hermès in 2004, is considered the original Mini Kelly. This elegant clutch differentiates itself with a less structured silhouette compared to its Mini Kelly counterpart, offering a more relaxed take on the iconic design. Unlike the Mini Kelly, which serves dual purposes as both a clutch and a shoulder bag thanks to its removable strap, the Kelly Pochette is designed exclusively as a clutch. It’s one of Hermès’ most sought-after pieces. 

The Kelly Cut 

Introduced in 2008, the Kelly Cut presents a sleek silhouette with its 31cm length, setting it apart from the more compact 22cm Kelly Pochette. This elongated design is the defining characteristic of the Kelly Cut, adding a sense of drama and sophistication. Its distinctive shape makes it an ideal evening option. 

The Kelly Elan 

Introduced in the early 2000s as an elegant clutch, the Hermes Kelly Elan swiftly emerged as a sought-after item. Its initial production lasted just two years, making it a coveted and incredibly rare piece among fashion lovers. Despite this brief production period, the allure of the Kelly Elan endured, leading to its re-release in 2023, now designed with a detachable shoulder strap for added versatility.

The Kelly Danse 

The Kelly Danse was designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier in 2013, it was discontinued in 2013 and then reintroduced in 2019 as the Kelly Danse II. The Kelly Danse is a more laidback take on the classic bag due to its versatility and elongated top strap. This bag can be worn in many different ways such as crossbody, belt bag, shoulder bag, clutch, and even a backpack thanks to its adjustable straps. 

The So Kelly 

Another gem designed in 2008 by Jean-Paul Gaultier is The So Kelly. It’s a blend between a hobo bag and a bucket bag. 

The Osier Wicker Picnic Kelly 

The Osier Wicker, or “Picnic Kelly,” debuted on the runway in 2011, drawing inspiration from the quintessential picnic basket with its Osier woven wicker body and Barénia leather trim. Wicker’s challenging and delicate nature highlights the extraordinary skill of Hermès artisans in creating this bag. Over the years, Hermès has revisited the Picnic concept with limited editions, including a Mini Picnic Kelly 20 and reissues of the original Kelly 35 size, all in very limited quantities. This rarity has made the Picnic Kelly highly sought after among collectors. 

The Kelly Doll

The Kelly Doll was originally designed by Hermès’ then-creative head Jean-Louis Dumas in 2000. Characterized by its whimsical design that incorporates elements of the classic Kelly bag into a doll-like figure, the Kelly Doll quickly captured the hearts of Hermès enthusiasts. However, in 2005, Hermès discontinued the production of the Kelly Doll, only to reintroduce it in 2008 as a series of limited edition releases. These special editions were often linked to the celebration of new boutique openings, each marked with a foil stamp indicating the specific store the bag was designed for. Transitioning from its initial role in commemorating store openings and special events, from 2017 onwards, the Kelly Doll became an exclusive offering to Hermès’ top clients.

The Kelly Doll Picto 

Hermès created an updated version of the Kelly Doll in 2022: The Kelly Doll Picto. 

The Teddy Kelly 

The Teddy Kelly, was first introduced by Jean Paul Gaultier for the Fall/Winter 2005 collection, and it made a reappearance on the Fall/Winter 2011 runway. Crafted in luxurious Doblis suede, this bag was offered in larger sizes including the 32 and 35. Hermès introduced a limited-edition Mini Teddy Kelly 20 bag in Grizzly Suede in 2023. This smaller version, with its rich texture and compact size, quickly became one of the most coveted and rarest Mini Kelly bags in the Hermès collection. 

The Sterling Silver Mini Kelly 

Among the most exclusive and sought-after Hermès pieces is the Sterling Silver Mini Kelly. This exquisite bag distinguishes itself with a striking chrome finish and a detachable Chaîne d’Ancre strap. Unlike its traditional leather counterparts, the Sterling Silver Mini Kelly features a unique hinged opening at the top, setting it apart in both functionality and design. Its rarity is underscored by the limited number of pieces available worldwide, making each one a treasured collector’s item. One of these bags was auctioned at Christie’s online in December 2023 and sold for $214,000. 

The Kelly en Désordre

The Kelly en Désordre made a memorable appearance on the runway at the Hermès Women’s Fall/Winter 2022 show, captivating onlookers with its innovative double-sided design. This distinctive feature allows for openings on both sides of the bag, each sealed with its own angled flap, sangle, and iconic turn lock. One flap opens to the main compartment while the other flap opens to a small pouch. Adding to its practicality, the bag is equipped with a non-detachable shoulder strap. 

The Takeaway

For over eight decades, the Hermès Kelly bag has epitomized classic elegance and luxury at its finest. Its journey from a practical accessory to the first “it-bag” is a testament to its timeless design and the profound impact of Grace Kelly’s iconic moment. This evolution not only cemented the Kelly bag’s place in fashion history but also paved the way for the emergence of must-have accessories in the luxury domain. In tribute to its lasting legacy, we’ve spotlighted a list of modern moments that reaffirm the Kelly bag’s unwavering status.