Milan Fashion Week underwent a significant transformation this season, reflecting the changing dynamics within the fashion industry. Several iconic brands operated without their usual creative leadership, leading to a more subdued yet intriguing event. Designers explored new aesthetics, signaling potential shifts in brand direction. The absence of key figures allowed emerging talents and interim leaders to showcase their visions, setting the stage for an era of fresh perspectives and innovative designs.
The mood at Milan Fashion Week was notably introspective, with designers questioning traditional notions of beauty and luxury. Established houses presented collections that diverged from recent trends, opting for more contemplative and experimental approaches. This shift was evident in the use of unconventional materials, bold color palettes, and reinterpretations of classic styles. Meanwhile, the arrival of new creative directors injected youthful energy and modern sensibilities into long-standing brands, marking a pivotal moment for the fashion world.
New Beginnings Amidst Leadership Changes
The departure of several prominent creative directors left a void that was filled with anticipation and speculation. Brands like Gucci and Fendi, now leaderless, showcased collections designed by their teams, hinting at possible future directions. Gucci's vibrant palette and Fendi's return to its core DNA were early indicators of what might lie ahead. These transitions created a palpable sense of renewal, as the fashion community eagerly awaited the debut of new leaders.
With Sabato De Sarno and Kim Jones leaving Gucci and Fendi respectively, the design teams took the helm, presenting collections that broke away from previous signatures. Gucci's collection featured lively hues of purple, lime green, and lemon yellow, offering a refreshing contrast to the familiar Ancora oxblood. Fendi's 100th anniversary collection, led by Silvia Fendi, reintroduced furry coats and embellished slips, reinforcing the brand's heritage while hinting at upcoming innovations. The absence of Bottega Veneta, following Matthieu Blazy’s move to Chanel, also marked a significant transition, with Louise Trotter set to debut her vision in September. This period of change brought both uncertainty and excitement, as the industry looked forward to seeing how these storied brands would evolve under new guidance.
Reimagining Aesthetics and Traditions
Long-standing designers embraced a more introspective approach, challenging conventional ideas of beauty and luxury. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons questioned the essence of feminine beauty, resulting in a subversive take on classic silhouettes. Dolce & Gabbana adopted a youthful, off-duty model vibe, while Versace revisited its archives with mixed reactions. These explorations signaled a broader trend towards redefining established norms and exploring new creative territories.
Prada's autumn/winter 2025 collection delved into the question of contemporary feminine beauty, moving away from viral trends to explore subversive interpretations of the little black dress. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons introduced "ugly" fashion as a counterpoint to the prevailing quiet luxury trend, challenging viewers to reconsider what constitutes beauty. Dolce & Gabbana's inspiration from off-duty models resulted in a collection that felt less glamorous but more relatable and youthful. Donatella Versace's revisit to the brand's archives, featuring signature prints and chainmail dresses, sparked debate about the future of the brand, especially amid rumors of her potential departure. Elsewhere, Alberta Ferretti's successor, Lorenzo Serafini, infused romantic yet modern elements into his debut collection, while David Koma's gothic-themed show for Blumarine marked a departure from the brand's pastel Y2K aesthetic. These changes underscored a collective effort to redefine and reimagine the foundations of fashion, setting the stage for a new era of creativity and innovation.