Very superstitious: fashion’s long love affair with lucky charms

Coco Chanel was famously superstitious throughout her life. Many of her treasured totems, such as the lion and the No 5, are still incorporated into the French maison’s creations – including its jewellery.

A source of protection and strength, talismans can be traced as far back as the Stone Age. Medieval knights wore charms in battle for protection, while Queen Victoria is credited with popularising the idea of sentimental jewellery.

Modern-day takes on talismans can found at brands such as , which incorporates the zodiac into pieces that use stones with powers of healing, abundance and protection such as lapis, malachite, carnelian and onyx; and Dyne by Sarah Ysabel Narici, which integrates a client’s personal talismans into symbols on jewellery pieces. Van Cleef & Arpels has long celebrated luck with its Alhambra collection, and Cartier’s Amulettes are a chic way to ward off bad juju.

For London-based jeweller Cecilia Fein-Hughes, founder of , talismans – as well as folklore and fairy tales – are an important element of her creations, all of which are handcrafted in 18k yellow gold and incorporate details such as champlevé enamel and engravings.

Cece Jewellery 18k gold, champlevé enamel, diamond, ruby and sapphire Lovers pendulum

“I always look to the past for future inspiration, and talismanic symbolism feels both captivating and enchanting,” she says. “I usually weave a talismanic element into my designs through a combination of enamel paintings and engraved works or letters to conjure up a magical power.”

In these uncertain times, Fein-Hughes believes talismanic jewellery has become more important as people seek a deeper connection to spirit.

FoundRae Resilience and Strength 18k gold, enamel and diamond necklace

“I believe jewellery surpasses a mere accessory, but speaks to the wearer on a deeper level – whether that is to protect, celebrate and honour loved ones, or to bring luck in everyday life. Maybe people are searching for more sentimental value in a world of fast fashion and instant gratification,” she muses. “I love how talismans play a role, which is so much fun when it comes to designing. For example, our latest Wild Horse ring features a horseshoe facing skywards and is studded with diamonds – this means the horseshoe can collect luck and ward off evil spirits at the same time.”

, founder of Los Angeles-based jewellery consultancy The Stax, is another firm believer in jewellery pieces as talismans.

Cece Jewellery 18k yellow gold and diamond forget-me-not wild flower necklace

Some of her favourite brands for pieces imbued with deeper meaning include Beck Jewels, and Marie Lichtenberg.

“I think coming out of the pandemic, one is more keen for protective jewellery that feels personal,” she opines. “The world feels more frayed than ever in my opinion, and I’m a believer in having any form of protection close to one’s heart.”

As for how to select a talismanic piece? Well, as Lampley Berens notes, the choice is a truly personal one.

“Go for something that you feel you can wear daily; that feels good to the touch, tactile; and that gets better with age – something that will stand the test of time and can be passed down; something that is you and houses meaning,” she advises.

Cece Jewellery 18k yellow gold diamond and enamel Lobster & Seaweed power charm

Or as Fein-Hughes puts it, lean into your intuition – and trust your own taste.

“Choose a design that resonates with you,” she says. “Then, I believe, the magic will follow.”