In an intricate year for Bordeaux, the 2024 vintage is shaping up to be remembered as a mixed bag for reds but surprisingly robust and distinct for whites. As Colin Hay wraps up his virtual tour of the en primeur releases, focusing on dry white wines from Pessac-Léognan, Graves, and Bordeaux more broadly, it becomes clear that this vintage defies simple categorization. Although initially anticipated to excel due to favorable picking conditions compared to reds, these white wines reflect the same growing season challenges, marked by elevated acidity. Yet, they also reveal a spectrum of quality, ranging from breathtaking vitality at their peak to sometimes uninspired mediocrity.
During the golden hues of autumn, when the vineyards of Bordeaux were basking in the afterglow of harvest, Colin Hay embarked on a journey to evaluate the dry whites of the region. In Pessac-Léognan and Graves, where the finest expressions of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon are crafted, the standout wines include La Mission Haut-Brion blanc and Smith Haut-Lafitte blanc, both scoring exceptionally high. These wines, alongside others like Haut-Brion blanc and Pape Clément, represent the pinnacle of what the 2024 vintage has achieved. The qualitative range is vast, with some wines demonstrating remarkable vibrancy while others struggle under the weight of climatic influences. Moving beyond these prestigious appellations, Bordeaux blanc offers its own set of highlights, with Pavillon Blanc de Margaux leading the charge. Notably, value picks such as Picque Caillou and La Garde provide accessible options for enthusiasts seeking excellence without extravagance.
From a journalistic perspective, the 2024 vintage underscores the importance of balance in winemaking. While freshness is often celebrated, especially in regions affected by global warming, this year’s wines remind us that complexity and depth are equally crucial. For readers and wine lovers alike, this vintage serves as a reminder that even within challenging conditions, greatness can emerge, offering a lesson in resilience and adaptability. It invites us to appreciate not just the peaks of perfection but also the nuances that make each bottle unique.