Tactile Transformations: A/W 2024's Sartorial Sensations

As the fashion world eagerly awaits the arrival of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season, Wallpaper* magazine's September 2024 Style Issue offers a captivating exploration of the season's defining moments. From the alluring textures of Miu Miu's gloves to the decadent feathers of Ferragamo, this article delves into the tactile and sensorial experiences that have captivated designers and fashion enthusiasts alike.

Elevating the Everyday: A/W 2024's Tactile Touchpoints

Soft Embrace

The upcoming season is all about the pleasure of clothing on the skin, with designers embracing a melange of tactile textures. From the teddy-bear feel of a Dries Van Noten bag to the fluffy finish of a Carven skirt, the focus is on enveloping the wearer in a cocoon of comfort and indulgence. This sensorial approach to fashion invites the wearer to experience the garments in a more intimate and immersive way, blurring the line between function and pure pleasure.

Coordinated Contrast

Designers have also explored the power of coordinating accessories, but with a twist. At Gucci, Sabato De Sarno's vision saw the tone of a leather glove seamlessly matching that of a handbag, creating a harmonious and unexpected pairing. This exploration of color and texture elevates the humble accessory to a statement-making piece, challenging the traditional boundaries of how we perceive and wear our fashion.

Stripes Reimagined

Missoni's iconic stripes have long been a hallmark of the brand, but in the A/W 2024 collection, designer Filippo Grazioli has breathed new life into the pattern. Shaggy knit stripes adorn an elongated overcoat, blending the familiar with the unexpected. This playful interpretation of a classic motif showcases the brand's ability to continuously reinvent and surprise, keeping their signature aesthetic fresh and relevant.

Futuristic Sheen

Slick, high-shine textures have lent this season's menswear a futuristic edge. At Jil Sander, designers Lucie and Luke Meier presented lustrous crackled-leather overcoats as part of a collection that they described as an "immersive capsule, smooth and embracing." This glossy, almost liquid-like finish elevates the garments, imbuing them with a sense of modernity and technological innovation.

Exposed Linings

Prada's womenswear show saw co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons excavating historical silhouettes, with tailored jackets having their backs sliced away to expose the lining. This unexpected reveal adds a sense of vulnerability and intimacy to the garments, inviting the wearer to explore the hidden layers and construction of the pieces.

Gloves Galore

Gloves have emerged as a standout accessory for the season, with designers exploring oversized and scrunched-up iterations. From Miu Miu's heavy, worn-leather gloves to the glove-handbag pairings at Gucci, this tactile element suggests a sense of functionality and a woman at work, while also adding a touch of seductive allure.

Leather Ties

The humble tie has been reimagined by a host of designers, with Prada and Bottega Veneta leading the charge. At Prada, the tie formed part of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons' riff on the corporate uniform, while at Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy crafted ties from luxurious leather, imbuing them with a seductive and sensual quality.

Feathered Finery

A fascination with old Hollywood glamour permeated Maximilian Davis' collections for Ferragamo, with flourishes of feathers sprouting from necklines or heeled pumps. This ode to the liberatory dress codes of the 1920s adds a touch of decadence and drama to the season's offerings, elevating the everyday with a touch of timeless elegance.

Slim Silhouettes

In contrast to the oversized silhouettes that have dominated recent seasons, menswear designers have provided a long and lean riposte. Silvia Venturini Fendi's slim, straight-cut tailoring, inspired by the contrast between "town and country," offers a refined and sophisticated alternative to the more relaxed trends of the past.

Protective Cocoons

The idea of protection has featured prominently in the A/W 2024 collections, with designers creating silhouettes that wrap and envelop the wearer. At Issey Miyake, Satoshi Kondo's balaclavas explore the instinctual "act of clothing the human body," providing a sense of security and comfort in the face of the elements.

Glamorous Guardians

As the temperature drops, this season's slick boots offer a glamorous way of protecting the body. Daniel Lee's latest collection for Burberry, inspired by the "heritage of the British outdoors," showcases a pair of boots that blend functionality with a touch of luxury, elevating the practical into the realm of the fashionable.

Cinched and Defined

A defined waistline has added a nostalgic elegance to the season's menswear silhouette, whether in nipped-waist tailoring, tie-fastening overcoats, or eye-catching belts, like those at Prada. These accents serve to accentuate the wearer's form, creating a sense of refined sophistication and timeless style.