Wine and Spirits
Bhutan's Inaugural Wine Collection: A New Horizon in Winemaking
2025-07-23

The inaugural release from the Bhutan Wine Company represents a truly remarkable achievement in the world of winemaking. This unique collection, tasted by a select group of experts in Paris, underscored the burgeoning potential of new wine regions and challenged established notions of viticultural identity. These wines, born from a land with no prior winemaking tradition, offered a captivating blend of familiarity and novelty, prompting reflections on the dynamic interplay between culture, context, and the perception of wine. The experience served as a powerful reminder that the global wine narrative is continuously expanding, embracing innovative approaches and unexpected origins.

This pioneering venture also highlighted the significant hurdles overcome by the Bhutan Wine Company during the 2024 vintage, including an unseasonal mid-harvest rain, disease pressure, and challenges from local wildlife. Yet, despite these adversities, the resulting wines displayed a surprising level of maturity and poise, far exceeding expectations for a debut vintage. This success story emphasizes the evolving nature of winemaking and the ongoing discovery of what grapes can achieve in diverse environments. It suggests a future where traditional boundaries are blurred, and new territories contribute to the rich tapestry of global wine production.

Pioneering Palates: A Parisian Debut

The Bhutan Wine Company recently introduced its initial commercial wine offerings at an exclusive tasting in Paris, a significant event that captivated the senses of a small group of discerning wine connoisseurs. This blind tasting of the 2024 Ser Kem range, encompassing four white and three red wines, revealed an intriguing and often challenging experience for even the most experienced palates. The unexpected nuances and regional characteristics of these Bhutanese wines prompted a re-evaluation of ingrained tasting frameworks, pushing tasters to consider new sensory possibilities.

Led by founders Mike Juergens and Ann Cross, whose serendipitous journey into Bhutanese winemaking began in 2018, the event became a playful exercise in "name that grape," often resulting in humorous misidentifications. Esteemed figures like wine writer Jancis Robinson and Bonhams' global head of wine and spirits, Amaury Aouli, were among those whose expertise was put to the test. For instance, what one confidently identified as Chardonnay turned out to be barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, while another's Sauvignon Blanc guess was an off-dry Riesling. The biggest surprise came from a wine initially mistaken for an Alsace varietal, which was, in fact, Traminette, an American hybrid. This captivating debut showcased the uncharted territory of Bhutanese viticulture, offering an exciting glimpse into the distinct identity these wines are beginning to forge, influenced by the nation's unique altitude, soil composition, and inherent vitality.

The Energetic Essence of Bhutanese Terroir

The shared characteristic among Bhutan's inaugural wines was a remarkable sense of energy, which, while not indicating high alcohol content (all were under 13% abv), spoke to the vibrant expression of their unique terroir. The white wines, in particular, displayed a vivacity that often overshadowed their red counterparts. While some wines, like the young Bordeaux blend and the Traminette, underwent maturation in new French oak, the effects of the wood were quite noticeable on these youthful wines. In contrast, the Pinot Noir, crafted in a glass demijohn with Bhutanese oak chips, offered a more rustic, elemental character, truly reflecting its 'garage wine' origins from the 'roof of the world.'

Amaury Aouli eloquently captured the essence of this tasting experience, noting the wines' "striking old-world precision… a classic backbone, yet threaded through with something entirely new, a kind of spirited wildness." He observed how familiar grape varieties, such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling, unfolded in unfamiliar and captivating ways, profoundly influenced by Bhutan's altitude, soil, and the inherent energy of the land. This suggests that the land itself reinterpreted these grapes, imbuing them with its own distinctive voice. The nascent Bhutanese wine industry's ability to produce wines of such quality, despite a lack of established viticultural history and facing numerous challenges, truly underscores the dynamic and unpredictable nature of winemaking. This innovative spirit and the promising early results invite further exploration into the boundless potential of Himalayan winemaking.

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