An unprecedented event recently unfolded at a prestigious auction held by Bonhams, where a bottle of Bhutanese wine, a product from a country with no prior winemaking tradition, commanded an astonishing price of $18,750. This figure rivals that of celebrated vintages from established wine regions, highlighting the extraordinary allure of this unique offering. Amayès Aouli, Bonhams' global head of wine and spirits, characterized this Bhutanese creation as 'mythological,' emphasizing its profound emotional and intellectual appeal.
\nThe wine at the heart of this sensation is Ser Kem, a name translating to 'an offering to the Gods' in Bhutanese, symbolizing a traditional toast where a few drops are ritually spilled for the divine. This maiden vintage from the Bhutan Wine Company represents a monumental leap for the nation, traditionally recognized for its serene Buddhist monasteries, elusive snow leopards, and towering peaks, rather than its viticultural prowess. Despite the absence of a historical wine-producing legacy, a reality stemming from Bhutan's never-colonized status and the non-native presence of Vitis vinifera, the country is now carving out its niche in the international wine community.
\nThe auctioned bottle, a grand 7.57-liter vessel aptly named 'the Himalayan,' is a symbolic blend of 16 grape varieties—nine red and seven white—sourced from nine distinct vineyards. This colossal bottle pays homage to Gangkhar Puensum, the world's highest unclimbed mountain, mirroring its 7,570-meter elevation in its impressive size. From an initial release of only 24 bottles, Ser Kem garnered a total of $74,250 from international buyers, underscoring the strong interest it generated. While falling short of the initial ambitious estimates, the auction's outcome was met with satisfaction by Aouli, affirming the project's audacious vision.
\nThe fortunate acquirer of 'the Himalayan' now shares a unique bond with Bhutan's monarch, King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, who received the only other 7.57-liter bottle of Ser Kem. Beyond the wine itself, the auction lot included an exclusive week-long guided tour of Bhutan, a private visit to the winery, and assured allocations of the Bhutan Wine Company's subsequent five vintages, enhancing the desirability of this rare acquisition.
\nThe genesis of the Bhutan Wine Company is a tale of an American couple, Michael Juergens and Ann Cross, whose participation in a high-altitude marathon in Bhutan sparked an unconventional realization: the Himalayan kingdom possessed untapped viticultural potential. Juergens, a wine industry veteran, and Cross, with her business acumen, were convinced that Bhutan's climate and agricultural traditions were ripe for winemaking. Their detailed proposal ultimately secured the king's support, leading to the establishment of the country's first vineyards in 2019, with grapevines imported from prominent wine regions globally.
\nThe pioneering efforts of Juergens and Cross faced significant logistical hurdles, particularly during the pandemic, as they managed the import of essential winemaking equipment into the landlocked nation. The project is deeply rooted in Bhutan's philosophy of 'Gross National Happiness,' emphasizing sustainable development and ecological preservation. This commitment is evident in practices such as monks blessing new vines and consulting astrologers for propitious release dates. The company’s embrace of experimental techniques, from varied row spacing to reverse cycle harvests and trials with native yeasts, showcases a spirit of innovation unburdened by traditional winemaking regulations. Esteemed British wine critic Jancis Robinson, a member of BWC's advisory board, has praised the early vintages for their exceptional quality and balance, attesting to the project's promising future.
\nThe Bhutan Wine Company is poised to expand its reach, with plans for international export of its 2025 vintage and exclusive tastings worldwide. Domestically, the 2024 vintage, featuring a diverse range of wines including Sauvignon Blanc, Traminette, Riesling, rosé, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, and reserve selections, is available at the company’s new wine bar in Thimphu, Bhutan's sole establishment of its kind. Positioning vineyards at higher altitudes, such as the Ser Bhum vineyard at 9,150 feet, is a strategic response to global climate shifts, offering cooler temperatures and enhanced UV-B exposure beneficial for grape development, despite challenges from monsoons, wildlife, and natural predators.
\nThe emergence of Bhutan's wine industry holds transformative potential for the nation, which cautiously opened to international visitors in 1974. Amidst concerns of brain drain and economic pressures, this initiative champions mindful capitalism and climate-smart agriculture, balancing commercial growth with the preservation of Bhutan's unique cultural identity. Karma Choeda, BWC's chief operating officer, views the project as a beacon of Bhutan’s thoughtful progression, underscoring its contribution to economic development through a revitalized agricultural sector. With a growing team of full-time and seasonal staff, BWC exemplifies the positive impact of this new industry. As Bhutan’s wine narrative unfolds, the prospect of sharing its essence and identity with the world through its wines fills the team with excitement, offering a unique connection point for strangers and fostering community through this shared appreciation.