A recent masterclass hosted by Decanter's New York Fine Wine Encounter became an unforgettable journey through the illustrious history of Biondi-Santi wines. This highly anticipated event, a coveted ticket among enthusiasts, offered a rare glimpse into six decades of winemaking excellence. Attendees were immersed in the rich legacy of this esteemed Italian family, discovering how their profound respect for tradition, coupled with a forward-thinking approach, has consistently produced wines of remarkable depth and longevity. The session highlighted not only the enduring quality of the wines but also the innovative spirit that continues to shape their future, ensuring that the essence of Biondi-Santi remains a beacon in the world of fine wine.
A Deep Dive into Biondi-Santi's Legacy at Decanter's New York Fine Wine Encounter
On a radiant Saturday, June 7th, at the highly anticipated Decanter's New York Fine Wine Encounter, the most sought-after experience was undoubtedly the Biondi-Santi masterclass. This exclusive event not only sold out in record time but also accumulated a substantial waiting list, a testament to the allure of the featured wines and the esteemed presence of Federico Radi, Biondi-Santi's Director of Winemaking and Viticulture, who expertly guided the session alongside Tina Gellie, Decanter's Content Director.
Federico Radi, with captivating narratives, initiated the journey by recounting the Biondi-Santi family's profound 160-year legacy and their historic Tenuta Greppo estate in Montalcino. He eloquently articulated how the estate's deep-rooted traditions and unique terroir are meticulously expressed in every bottle. The masterclass then proceeded to a comprehensive tasting, commencing with the freshly released 2022 Rosso di Montalcino, progressing to a compelling comparison of the 2019 and 2015 vintages of Brunello di Montalcino, and culminating with a remarkable exploration of five Brunello di Montalcino Riserva vintages: 2018, 2004, 1997, 1988, and the venerable 1975.
The Biondi-Santi name is revered within the Italian wine landscape, celebrated not merely for the age-worthiness of its wines but for the founding family's pioneering role in establishing and continually evolving this iconic Tuscan denomination. Radi meticulously traced the estate's lineage, highlighting key milestones such as Ferruccio Biondi-Santi's creation of the first Brunello di Montalcino-labeled wine in 1888, named for the distinctive brown hue of the specific Sangiovese Grosso clone he identified. The narrative continued through 1967, when his son, Tancredi, formalized the denomination's production regulations. Tancredi's son, Franco, who began his winemaking tenure in 1971, emerged as an innovator, notably developing a proprietary Sangiovese Grosso clone, BBS11 (Brunello Biondi-Santi 11), registered in 1978, which remains integral to the estate's signature style. Radi underscored that the Biondi-Santi style prioritizes longevity through robust tannic structure and acidity, harmoniously balanced by a remarkable freshness and a delightful fruit sweetness, ensuring these wines retain their vibrancy and balance for decades.
A significant shift occurred in 2017 when Biondi-Santi and Tenuta Greppo were acquired by the French luxury group EPI. Federico Radi's appointment in the same year marked a new chapter. Historically, Il Greppo exclusively utilized Slavonian oak casks for maturation since 1888. However, under the new stewardship and with no Biondi-Santi family member directly overseeing operations, the most recent Riserva release, the 2018 vintage, underwent fermentation in a combination of barrels and concrete, representing an evolution from traditional casks. Radi underscored the team's unwavering dedication to upholding the Biondi-Santi legacy, guided by a philosophy of "Evolution, not Revolution," striving for a "new classicism."
Radi further detailed the winery's strategic "four pillars" for the future: embracing regenerative viticulture to enhance soil health; parcel-specific vinification from identified prime plots; selecting 40 distinct old-vine Sangiovese clones to elevate wine complexity; and implementing new trellising systems to adapt to global climate shifts. When questioned about climate change's potential impact on the Biondi-Santi style, Radi likened their approach to a tightrope walker, emphasizing that while climatic variations—be it excessive rain, wind, or extreme temperatures—can disrupt, their objective is to maintain stability. He views himself and his skilled team as the "balancing pole," navigating vintage variations to ensure the enduring integrity of the Biondi-Santi style.
Reflections on Heritage, Innovation, and Terroir in Winemaking
The Biondi-Santi masterclass served as a profound reminder that the world of wine is a vibrant tapestry woven from history, meticulous craftsmanship, and an unyielding connection to the land. It highlighted that true excellence in winemaking transcends fleeting trends, instead rooting itself in a deep respect for heritage while embracing thoughtful innovation. The ability of Biondi-Santi to maintain its distinctive identity over more than a century, even amidst ownership changes and evolving viticultural practices, underscores the timeless allure of wines that genuinely express their terroir and the vision of their creators. This experience inspires a greater appreciation for the dedicated individuals who serve as custodians of such legacies, ensuring that each bottle not only tells a story of the past but also holds the promise of a remarkable future.