This article chronicles an adventurous expedition to an incredibly remote brewery nestled in the heart of Iceland's rugged landscape. It details a challenging drive through a formidable mountain pass amidst rain and snow to reach Borgarfjörður eystri, a secluded coastal village where KHB Brugghús, a unique brewery, stands as a testament to perseverance and tradition. The journey highlights the commitment required to reach such a distant locale, emphasizing the surprising discovery of high-quality craft beverages in an unexpected setting. The narrative explores the brewery's deep connection to local history and folklore, revealing how it has become a central part of this small community.

A Journey to Iceland's Remote Brewing Haven

Our remarkable odyssey commenced with an adventurous drive through the dramatic, ever-changing landscapes of Northeast Iceland. The journey unfolded on a Saturday in June, as we navigated the sole winding road leading into Borgarfjörður eystri, a quaint coastal village inhabited by merely a hundred souls. Our destination: KHB Brugghús, a brewery and distillery founded by Helgi Sigurdsson and Auður Vala Gunnarsdóttir, located approximately 420 miles (675 km) from Iceland's bustling capital. The drive itself was an exhilarating experience, traversing the Vatnsskarð eystra pass, ascending to an altitude of 1,400 feet (approximately 430 m). What began as a gentle rain soon transformed into a steady snowfall as we climbed, creating a scene of breathtaking, albeit challenging, natural beauty. Accompanying me on this quest were the distinguished author Tim Webb, celebrated for his works on beer, and Michael Collard, a dedicated member of CAMRA. Their presence underscored the significance of our visit to this remote brewing haven.

Upon our arrival at KHB Brugghús, a structure rich in history with its peeling cream and pink facade, we were immediately struck by its century-old charm. Helgi proudly informed us that the building, originally established in 1897 as the Kaupfélag Héraðsbúa, a local cooperative, retains its original roof and character, safeguarded by preservation laws. This commitment to heritage extends to the brewery's name and logo, honoring the cooperative's legacy. Inside, the taproom exuded a warm, inviting ambiance, complete with an antique rotary dial telephone and a grand wooden staircase leading to a cozy, timber-roofed space. Here, we encountered fellow adventurers from a Lindblad Expedition cruise, seeking respite and refreshment. Helgi generously poured us a sample of their renowned Borghildur Czech pilsner. This exceptional brew, crafted under the mentorship of Josef Krýsl, a former brewmaster from Pilsner Urquell, captivated us with its exquisite taste, later earning a silver medal at the London Beer Competition in March 2024. Krýsl's unexpected extended stay in Borgarfjörður eystri during the "COVID summer" of 2021 proved to be a stroke of fortune, as he imparted invaluable brewing knowledge to KHB's head brewer, Þorsteinn Brandsson (Steini).

KHB Brugghús is not merely a brewery; it is a purveyor of stories and local lore. Each of their beers carries a narrative, from Borghildur, named after the mythical Elf Queen residing on a nearby hill, to Stúlka Surbjór, a popular rhubarb-strawberry sour dedicated to the unsung heroines of adventure. Their dark lager, Naddi, adorned with an image of a werewolf, pays homage to a monstrous creature of local legend and secured a gold medal at the London Beer Competition. Beyond beer, KHB also boasts a distillery. Helgi demonstrated their ingenious method of distilling leftover Christmas beer into an oak-aged spirit, affectionately dubbed the "spirit of last Christmas." Their original Icelandic Moonshine, Landi, a homemade vodka based on a closely guarded recipe from a late local distiller, earned a bronze at the London Spirits Competition in 2023. This homegrown spirit, along with a signature gin crafted with eight distinct herbs, is overseen by Helgi's sister-in-law, Esther Kjartansdóttir, an elementary school teacher who moonlights as KHB's distiller. The brewery, along with the adjacent Blábjörg resort, serves as the village's largest employer, thriving particularly during the summer puffin season when over 67,000 tourists flock to the nearby Hafnarhólmi, or "Puffin Island."

Reflections on Discovery and Unexpected Excellence

Our expedition to KHB Brugghús was an enlightening experience, transforming our perceptions of what is achievable in the most remote corners of the world. It underscored the profound impact of passion, tradition, and unexpected collaborations. The sheer quality of the beer and spirits produced in such an isolated setting was truly astounding. It challenged the notion that world-class craftsmanship is confined to urban centers, proving that dedication and expertise can flourish anywhere, even in a village teeming with ancient folklore and natural wonders. This journey reminded us that the greatest discoveries often lie beyond the well-trodden path, waiting to be unearthed by those willing to venture into the unknown. It inspires a renewed appreciation for local businesses that not only contribute to their community's economy but also weave themselves into the very fabric of its cultural heritage.