Embracing the Unforeseen: A Journey into Winemaking
An Unexpected Inheritance: From Spain to the Rhône Vineyards
Saskia Goetschy's path to becoming a winemaker was anything but conventional, embodying the idea that destiny sometimes intervenes in the most unexpected ways. Unlike those born into viticultural dynasties or actively seeking out vineyard acquisitions, Saskia found herself immersed in the world of winemaking through an unforeseen turn of events. Her childhood in Malaga, Spain, where her father was a dedicated lawyer, was far removed from the French countryside. However, her mother's desire for a more communal family life led them to explore rural French properties. This led to an unexpected acquisition by her father in 1993: a sprawling 18th-century estate in Lirac, adorned with vineyards, known as Château Boucarut. This abrupt change, while stressful for a young Saskia who had to adapt to a new country and language, marked the beginning of her profound connection with the land.
The Legacy of Château Boucarut: A Rich History and a New Beginning
The property that became Château Boucarut, a substantial estate dating back to 1758, was in dire need of restoration. The buildings demanded extensive renovation, prompting Saskia's mother to seek temporary lodging. Fortuitously, she connected with a local who was himself venturing into winemaking and offered them accommodation. This benefactor turned out to be Rodolphe de Pins of Château de Montfaucon, a respected figure in the wine community. Saskia's family resided in his château for two years, establishing invaluable connections and gaining initial insights into the regional wine landscape. This period of immersion provided a crucial foundation for their future endeavors at Boucarut.
A Return to the Roots: From Legal Careers to Viticultural Pursuits
Following her education, Saskia pursued a career in law, practicing for twelve years in Luxembourg. It was there that she met Maurice, her future husband. During their vacations, they would retreat to Château Boucarut, envisioning a future where they could transition from their legal professions to a life centered around winemaking. Their dream gained momentum when a neighboring parcel of vineyards became available. Recognizing this as an unmissable opportunity to expand their estate and fully commit to their vision, they acquired it. Despite the challenges of managing vineyards remotely from Luxembourg for two years, their passion ultimately led them to make a life-altering decision in 2019: to leave their legal careers behind and permanently return to Boucarut, dedicating themselves entirely to the art of winemaking.
Embracing Organic Principles: A Commitment to Soil Health and Biodiversity
Upon their full-time return, Saskia and Maurice immediately began converting their vineyards to organic practices, a decision Maurice described as a clear and necessary choice given the established efficacy of organic methods. Their philosophy extends beyond mere organic certification, aiming for a holistic approach that prioritizes local biodiversity. Maurice firmly believes in pushing boundaries, rejecting conventional practices like mechanical plowing which, while controlling weeds without herbicides, can disrupt the intricate microbial life within the soil. He metaphorically states, \"If you put a cat in a blender, it's not a cat anymore,\" illustrating his conviction that disturbing the soil's structure harms the unseen networks, such as mycelial fungi, vital for vine health. They are now moving towards 'no-till' farming, an advanced regenerative viticulture technique that avoids plowing or disturbing the soil, with the ultimate goal of regenerative viticulture to significantly improve soil health. This method, along with minimal intervention in the cellar—avoiding commercial yeasts, added enzymes, and pre-bottling sulfites, fining, or filtration—reflects their profound respect for natural processes, drawing inspiration from pioneers like Eric Pfifferling of Domaine l'Anglore.
A Distinctive Expression: The Vibrancy of Wines from an Outsider's Perspective
The outcome of their dedicated efforts is a range of wines characterized by their vitality, immediate appeal, and drinkability. In natural wine circles, the phrase \"living wines\" is sometimes used, and while wines are not literally alive, tasting those from Château Boucarut lends credence to the sentiment. The wines possess a vibrant energy that truly speaks of their origin. It is commonly believed that those born into winemaking families have an inherent advantage, inheriting established vineyards, wineries, and cellars. However, Maurice points out that such legacies can sometimes lead to complacency and a limited perspective. \"We didn't have the heritage of parents, grandparents... we could begin more or less from zero,\" he notes. This outsider's perspective has been a profound asset, allowing them to approach an ancient terroir with fresh eyes and an open mind, resulting in wines that are not only delicious but genuinely original, setting Château Boucarut apart in the Rhône landscape.