Unveiling the Unique Terroirs: Richebourg and Romanée-St-Vivant in Focus

Vosne-Romanée's Crown Jewels: Grands Crus Unveiled

Nestled within Burgundy's illustrious Côte de Nuits, the village of Vosne-Romanée boasts an exceptional collection of Grand Cru vineyards. Among these, six distinct sites, alongside Echézeaux and Grands-Echézeaux in nearby Flagey-Echézeaux, stand as testaments to the region's winemaking heritage. While several of these, such as Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, La Grande Rue, and La Romanée, are single-owner monopoles, Richebourg and Romanée-St-Vivant, with their fragmented ownership, offer a particularly compelling study in viticultural diversity.

The Intertwined Destinies of Neighboring Vineyards

These two vineyards share remarkable similarities, most notably their geographical proximity; a significant portion of Richebourg lies directly uphill from Romanée-St-Vivant. Their bedrock, primarily Middle Jurassic Bajocian stage limestone, provides a common geological foundation. Moreover, both vineyards generally face the same eastern direction. A crucial shared element is the dominance of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) as the largest proprietor in both, holding 43.7% of Richebourg and 56% of Romanée-St-Vivant. From the vantage point of DRC's winery, the boundaries between these Grand Crus appear seamlessly blurred, despite the presence of a small vineyard road delineating them. Yet, a recent tasting session with DRC's directors underscored that despite their superficial resemblances, the inherent differences between the two wines are arguably more profound than their commonalities.

Ancient Lineages: Monastic Roots and Early Ownership

The historical narratives of these two distinguished vineyards, while sharing some common threads, also diverge significantly. Records indicate that early cultivation of these sites was overseen by various monastic orders. For centuries, the lower slopes were meticulously tended by the Benedictine monks of the Abbey of St-Vivant de Vergy. Meanwhile, the higher-elevation vineyards, including what would become Richebourg, found their fame under the stewardship of the Cistercian monks of Cîteaux, who meticulously crafted wine in their Clos de Vougeot cellars. This monastic influence laid the groundwork for their future renown.

Romanée-St-Vivant: A Deep Historical Dive

The documented history of Romanée-St-Vivant stretches back to 900 AD when Manasses I, Count of Chalon and Beaune, a powerful lord of Vergy, granted the Abbey of St-Vivant de Vergy its first vineyards. Two centuries later, between 1103 and 1143, Hugh II, Duke of Burgundy, confirmed and expanded upon these initial endowments. Over time, the Abbey acquired the majority of vineyards in Vosne and neighboring Flagey. The most significant of these acquisitions were four contiguous "clos" (enclosed vineyards) originally granted to the abbey: Clos des Neuf Journaux, Clos du Moytan, Clos des Quatre Journaux, and Clos des Cinq Journaux. The last of these, sold by the abbey in 1584, eventually became the famed Romanée-Conti after its acquisition by the Prince of Conti in the 18th century. The remaining three "clos" were collectively known as Romanée-St-Vivant, first mentioned by this name in 1765. During the French Revolution, the abbey's vineyards were confiscated and Romanée-St-Vivant was sold to Nicolas-Joseph Marey. Marey, a local politician and deputy to the National Assembly, married Jeanne-Charlotte Mongé of Pommard, and together they amassed one of Burgundy's most significant vineyard holdings in the 19th century. The dominant portion of Romanée-St-Vivant (5.29ha) remained with Domaine Marey-Monge until it was leased to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in 1966. DRC subsequently purchased these vines in 1986, now owning over 56% of the appellation in a single, contiguous block.

Diverse Ownership in Romanée-St-Vivant

The fragmentation of the Romanée-St-Vivant vineyard began much earlier. Madame Marey-Monge sold the southern section, known as the Clos des Quatre Journaux, to the Latour family in 1898. While the Latour family still retains a portion of this vineyard, labeled under their name, the remainder of the vines from Quatre Journaux were later divided into smaller parcels and are now owned by Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, Domaine de l'Arlot, investor Wolf Jaeger (partially shared with Domaine Dujac), and Domaine Sylvain Cathiard. Recently, LVMH also acquired a section that previously belonged to Domaine Poisot. Furthermore, Marey-Monge sold an additional two hectares at the northern end of the vineyard to Domaine Charles Noëllat. Half of this was then sold to Lalou Bize-Leroy in 1988, making Domaine Leroy the second-largest proprietor of the appellation. The remaining portion was subsequently split between Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat and their in-laws at Domaine JJ Confuron.

Richebourg: A Storied Past and Present Fragmentation

While Richebourg's origins may not be as ancient as Romanée-St-Vivant's, its name is attested to much earlier, with a reference dating back to 1512. Historian Jean-François Bazin notes that in the 16th century, it was known as 'La Gueuppee' and was also part of the Abbey St-Vivant de Vergy's holdings. The abbey subsequently sold portions of these vineyards to other monastic orders, including the Cistercians near Cîteaux, who themselves worked the vines and produced wine in their cellars at Clos de Vougeot. Bazin suggests that Richebourg's later renown was largely due to the Cistercians' efforts. During the French Revolution, Richebourg wines were valued almost as highly as the adjacent Romanée-Conti and La Romanée. Ownership of Richebourg has always been more fragmented than Romanée-St-Vivant, with parcels being sold throughout the 19th century. The early 20th century saw a significant expansion of the vineyard as the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée laws were implemented. The original heart of the vineyard, a 5.05ha lieu-dit called 'Les Richebourgs,' bordered by Romanée-Conti and La Romanée to the south and Romanée-St-Vivant to the east.

The 'Les Verroilles' Dispute and Consolidation

To the north, Richebourg is bounded by another lieu-dit originally known as 'Les Verroilles-sous-Richebourg.' Les Verroilles, being steeper and facing slightly northeast, experiences cooler temperatures and later ripening. It is also exposed to the cool air flowing from the Combe Brûlée valley. Due to these differences, some observers questioned if the wine produced from Les Verroilles was of the same caliber as 'Les Richebourgs.' In the 1920s, several producers, including Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, attempted to prevent wines from Les Verroilles from being sold as Richebourg. However, they lost their case, and Les Verroilles was subsequently merged with Richebourg when the appellation was created in 1936. The majority of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's Richebourg holdings are located in Les Richebourgs, assembled by Jacques-Marie Duvault-Blochet, the domain's founder, in the 19th century. The domain also owns a plot in Les Verroilles, acquired after Duvault-Blochet's death, though this plot has recently been replanted and its grapes are not included in the most recent vintages, leading some to believe this has resulted in a more focused and concentrated wine. Most other proprietors in Les Richebourgs acquired their vines in the 19th or early 20th century, including Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Domaine Charles Noëllat (now split between Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat and Domaine Leroy), Domaine Jean Grivot, and Domaine Monyard-Mugneret. In the 19th century, ownership of Les Verroilles passed to the Camus and Gros families, who still own most of it today (with Domaine Gros now divided into three separate domains through inheritance).

The Crucial Role of Slope and Soil

In Burgundy, the character of a wine is intrinsically linked to its soil and the vineyard's gradient. In Richebourg, the soil depth rarely exceeds 30cm, while in Romanée-St-Vivant, it can reach nearly 90cm in certain sections. Romanée-St-Vivant is also relatively flatter, with altitudes ranging from 247m to 265m and a gradient between 2% and 7%. Richebourg, in contrast, features a more pronounced slope, from 265m to 290m, with an average gradient of 12%. When analyzing Burgundian vineyards, those on flatter gradients with deeper soils tend to produce more fruit-forward and approachable wines. Conversely, wines from steeper slopes often exhibit greater structure and require longer to evolve in the bottle and in the glass. This balance between fruit and tannins is precisely why the finest Burgundian Crus are typically found on the mid-slopes of the Côte d'Or.

Discerning the Differences Through Taste

The contrasting characteristics of Romanée-St-Vivant and Richebourg wines are vividly demonstrated through tasting. While some variations may be attributed to winemaking techniques, each Grand Cru possesses a distinctive style that transcends individual producers. Romanée-St-Vivant wines frequently display aromatic and approachable qualities, showcasing red and black fruit profiles, floral notes, and occasionally a hint of spice. Their texture is often fleshy and mouth-filling, with a full body, supple tannins, and generous extract. Richebourg wines, in contrast, can be more reserved initially, taking longer to reveal their charms, which are sometimes masked by a prominent minerality in their youth. Their body is less overtly generous but more concentrated, tannic, and profound. Richebourg is often compared to Romanée-Conti, its esteemed neighbor, and like Romanée-Conti, wine enthusiasts will be rewarded by allowing it to age for two decades or more before enjoying it. Romanée-St-Vivant, at its best, can evoke the allure of La Tâche. While it may sometimes lack Richebourg's longevity, it can frequently be enjoyed earlier, often after just ten years of cellar aging.

Pinot Noir's Finest Expressions

Both Richebourg and Romanée-St-Vivant represent sublime terroirs for Pinot Noir, yet the wines they yield are strikingly different. Despite their physical proximity, the unique identity of each vineyard shines through the winemaker's craft, ultimately reaching the glass and the palate of the connoisseur. One offers an effusive, voluptuous, and sensual experience, while the other is more contemplative, concentrated, and almost regal. Both are undeniably exceptional, each to be savored in its own opportune moment.