Fashion
Gary Hume on creating Burberry’s medical-green show set, which revisits the artist’s 1990 work ‘Bays’
2024-09-16

Bridging the Gap: When Art and Fashion Collide

In the early 1990s, a group of young British artists, known as the YBAs (Young British Artists), were making waves in the art world with their unconventional and boundary-pushing works. Among them was Gary Hume, whose haunting "Bays" series, made from industrial tarpaulin, would later find an unexpected connection with the world of fashion.

Unlocking the Artistic Synergy

The Unexpected Collaboration

In 2024, Gary Hume received an intriguing message from Burberry's creative director, Daniel Lee. Lee had discovered Hume's "Bays" series, a collection of pieces that had not been exhibited for decades. Intrigued by the work's unique aesthetic, Lee proposed a collaboration, bringing Hume's art into the realm of fashion.

Hume, who had largely remained disconnected from the fashion world, was initially surprised by the request. "I don't know how he came across them," the artist recalls, referring to the "Bays" pieces. "I hadn't touched the pieces in a long time, and so when Daniel asked me if I could participate in his show, I said yes."

The collaboration proved to be a fruitful one, as Hume's art provided the perfect backdrop for Lee's latest Burberry collection. The green tones of the "Bays" pieces, which Hume described as reminiscent of "surgeon's gowns," created a striking contrast with the concrete walls of the National Theatre, where the show was held.

Bridging the Creative Divide

Despite their vastly different creative processes, Hume and Lee found common ground in their shared passion for their respective crafts. "There was a real bond of being two creative people," Hume says. "It's fascinating and fun to be around someone who has to work so quickly. There's so much pressure on him. This show you're in now, this is two years' work, and Daniel is showing, I don't know, three months' work or whatever it might be. I think we were wowed by each other – that he's like that, and that I can spend two years. It's just two different ways."

The collaboration allowed Hume to gain a deeper appreciation for the fashion industry's fast-paced nature, while Lee marveled at the artist's meticulous approach to his craft. "I work six days a week and I'm covered in paint all the time," Hume explains. "My clothes are old, and they go down the line until they become studio clothes, then they're covered in paint. That's when I'm really happy, and that's when I feel most myself."

Exploring the Unexpected

The success of the Burberry collaboration has not deterred Hume from continuing to push the boundaries of his own artistic practice. His latest exhibition at the Sprüth Magers gallery in Mayfair showcases a new body of work that delves into the natural world, with a particular focus on the otherworldly beauty of birds.

Hume describes the process of creating these paintings as an exercise in "being lost." He explains, "I'm very, very keen on the shape that swans make. Other than that, I didn't want to know what I was doing. I wrestled with all of the paintings, because even when I found them to be good, I then broke them. I made them over and over and over and over and over again until they just arrived. It was about being lost really. I wanted to be lost until I was found."

This sense of exploration and discovery is a hallmark of Hume's artistic approach, and it is what has made his work so captivating to both art enthusiasts and fashion aficionados alike. By embracing the unexpected and allowing himself to get lost in the creative process, Hume continues to push the boundaries of what is possible in the world of art.

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