Wine and Spirits
Godello: Spain's Rising White Wine Star
2025-07-08

A unique dry white wine from the northwestern region of Galicia in Spain, Godello is making waves in the global wine scene. This varietal, produced from its namesake grape, offers a captivating blend of subtlety and depth, reminiscent of the sun-drenched Galician landscapes. Its growing appeal among beverage professionals and consumers points to a broader trend of exploring distinctive grape varieties beyond the usual selections.

Renowned sommeliers and wine directors have lauded Godello for its nuanced character. Jason Hedges, who oversees beverages for LT Hospitality, highlights its intricate layers and maritime minerality, noting how the wine gradually reveals its complexity. Similarly, Emily Carr of Arborway Imports appreciates its fruit-forward profile combined with an engaging texture, setting it apart from other popular white wines. Thomas Kakalios, lead sommelier at Asador Bastian, describes Godello as a mineral-driven, structured white wine possessing the esteemed qualities of a classic Old World grape. Depending on whether it's oaked or unoaked, Godello can present a spectrum of flavors, ranging from light, vibrant citrus notes to richer, medium-bodied stone fruit characteristics. Despite these variations, a defining freshness, characteristic of Galicia, remains consistent across all styles.

The increasing demand for Godello reflects a decade-long shift in American wine consumption towards lesser-known varietals. Kara Daving, lead sommelier at The Bazaar by José Andrés, observes that both adventurous drinkers and sommeliers are seeking more complex and fresh options. While Albariño previously satisfied this curiosity, Godello is now emerging as a strong contender. Keith Goldston, Master Sommelier at The Post Oak Hotel at Uptown Houston, credits Albariño with paving the way for Spanish white wines in the U.S. market, encouraging consumers to delve deeper into Spain's diverse offerings. Some experts, like Chris Schneider, wine director at Francie in Brooklyn, even believe Godello could eventually surpass Albariño due to its compelling nature and potential for aging. Furthermore, unlike Albariño, which is often associated with summer, Godello's enhanced structure and body allow it to be enjoyed year-round, broadening its appeal and consumption opportunities.

Many draw parallels between Godello and Chardonnay, especially white Burgundy, to introduce it to new palates. Godello mirrors the flavor profiles of white Burgundy, featuring notes of yellow apple, citrus, and stone fruit, complemented by a flinty finish. Importantly, it offers these sophisticated flavors at a more accessible price point. Grace Bradley, wine director at Petite Vie, points out that both unoaked and aged versions of Godello exist, catering to preferences for either an easily drinkable wine or a more serious, age-worthy selection. Despite these comparisons, experts emphasize Godello's unique identity. Drew Brady, wine director at Soda Club in New York City, colorfully describes it as 'Chablis that went on vacation and returned with an enhanced personality and better taste in music.' Godello's distinctive briny quality, attributed to its coastal Galician origins, provides a 'saline-based mineral spice' that differentiates it from the limestone minerality found in Burgundian Chardonnays.

Godello's inherent saline qualities make it an exceptional partner for seafood. Restaurants along the coast, such as The Harbor House Inn in Elk, California, value its ability to complement ocean-inspired dishes. Wine director Jason Chin specifically highlights its pairing with shellfish paella, where the wine's texture and salty undertones beautifully interact with the dish's spices and citrus. It also harmonizes with grilled octopus, tinned fish, and gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp). Beyond seafood, Godello proves its versatility by complementing richer dishes like seared sea scallops, where its acidity cuts through richness, and even summer vegetables. David Danforth, sommelier at La Padrona in Boston, enjoys it with succotash featuring zucchini, summer squash, tomatoes, and corn. Ultimately, Godello's adaptability extends to simple pleasures, as Drew Brady suggests it pairs wonderfully with 'salt-and-vinegar chips and a lawn chair' or classic Spanish tomato-smothered crispy bread.

Godello's growing presence signals a shift in consumer preferences towards nuanced and versatile white wines. Its distinct character and food-pairing versatility make it a compelling choice for both casual enjoyment and sophisticated dining experiences.

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