In the esteemed Rhône Valley, a region celebrated for its robust red wines, the viticultural landscape of Côte-Rôtie often evokes comparisons to Burgundy's revered Côte d'Or. This affinity stems from their shared focus on single-varietal red wines, predominantly Syrah for Côte-Rôtie and Pinot Noir for Burgundy, coupled with an emphasis on expressing distinct terroir through single-vineyard bottlings. The Duclaux brothers, Benjamin and David, operating their family estate in Tupin-et-Semons, have been instrumental in showcasing the untapped potential of this often-overlooked sector of Côte-Rôtie. Their commitment to crafting nuanced and age-worthy wines from specific parcels is gradually shifting perceptions, proving that exceptional quality and profound character are not exclusively found in the more historically lauded Ampuis vineyards.

The Domaine Benjamin & David Duclaux, a heritage dating back to 1928, is firmly rooted in the Tupin-et-Semons commune, where their five-hectare estate thrives. Benjamin and David, sharing a jovial camaraderie, represent the third generation of winemakers in their family. David's son, Mattéo, having recently returned from a season in New Zealand, has joined the operation, bringing a fresh perspective while maintaining the family's sunny disposition. As Benjamin aptly puts it, \"We're not just making wine; we're creating moments in life to share together.\" Their dedication is evident in their exclusive focus on Côte-Rôtie, cultivated solely on the sun-drenched, southeast-facing slopes of gneiss terroir surrounding their estate. When questioned about expanding into other appellations like Saint-Joseph, Benjamin firmly states, \"It's a life choice. We want to stay small and master what we do, and we have a good life as it is! We only make wine from the slopes – we were born on the slopes.\" This philosophy underpins their pursuit of excellence within their chosen domain.

Historically, the Duclaux estate produced a single Côte-Rôtie blend from all their plots until the early 2000s. A pivotal moment occurred in 2003 when they experimented with an experimental barrel of wine from their oldest vines in the lieu-dit Maison Rouge, dating back to 1943. While initially not released commercially, its remarkable quality was undeniable. David recalls, \"It has always been silkier, racier.\" This success led to the official release of Maison Rouge in 2005. Following this, their classic cuvée was rebranded as La Germine, later joined by La Chana, a cuvée incorporating 7% Viognier designed for earlier consumption. Their fourth cuvée, Coteaux de Tupin, first appeared in 2018. The distinctions between these bottlings extend beyond specific parcels. Varying proportions of whole bunch fermentation, ranging from 20% for La Chana and La Germine to 100% for Coteaux de Tupin, contribute to their unique profiles. While new oak is used, it never overshadows the wine's intrinsic character upon maturation.

The names of these cuvées also carry historical significance. La Chana and La Germine refer to antiquated place names found on ancient vineyard maps, though both are blends of several parcels. Coteaux de Tupin directly translates to 'hillsides of Tupin,' a large lieu-dit beneath the hilltop village of Tupin. More intriguingly, the etymology of Maison Rouge, meaning 'red house' in English, offers two compelling possibilities, both recounted by David. One theory connects it to a house in the vineyard once owned by the Archbishop of Vienne, whose robes and dwelling were reputedly red. The other suggests it was a red-painted guesthouse in Roman times, serving as a roadside inn where travelers could find lodging. David acknowledges the ambiguity, stating, \"Which is true? We don't know.\"

During a recent visit earlier this year, the Duclaux brothers generously offered a comprehensive vertical tasting of their Maison Rouge and Coteaux de Tupin, a first for both the winemakers and the attendees. The Maison Rouge series, with its focus on the distinctive gneiss soils, showcased exuberant fragrance, characterized by high-toned rose and tobacco notes. This wine occupies a stylistic middle ground in Côte-Rôtie: traditional yet refined, modern yet balanced. While enjoyable in its youth, it truly blossoms after 7 to 15 years, depending on the vintage. Even the 2008, a wet year, was past its prime, yet the 2005 still had another decade of evolution ahead. The three Coteaux de Tupin vintages tasted were exceptional. Compared to the more approachable Maison Rouge, Coteaux de Tupin presented a bolder, richer, and more velvety expression. Although designed for extended aging, all three vintages of Coteaux de Tupin were surprisingly accessible at the time of tasting.

While the single-vineyard wines from Ampuis often garner significant attention, those from Tupin-et-Semons, particularly the Duclaux's, remain comparatively well-priced. However, as this tasting clearly demonstrated, their quality is undeniably excellent, suggesting that this value may not persist indefinitely. The Duclaux family is not alone in producing single-vineyard wines from these lieu-dits; other producers like Domaine Benôit Roseau, Domaine Martin Clerc, and Maison Stéphane Ogier (who recently acquired land there) also bottle Coteaux de Tupin. Domaine Georges Vernay and Domaine Mouton produce Maison Rouge. The rising quality and increasing recognition of wines from Tupin-et-Semons underscore the dynamism of Côte-Rôtie and hint at exciting future prospects for horizontal tastings across this promising sub-region.