Australia's esteemed wine-producing areas, particularly Margaret River and Great Southern, recently captivated the Thai wine community through a series of engaging masterclasses held in Bangkok. These events highlighted the exceptional characteristics of their wines, demonstrating the unique environmental factors and innovative cultivation techniques that contribute to their global acclaim. The initiative served to deepen the appreciation for Australian fine wines within the thriving Asian market.

Western Australia, a territory renowned for its pristine and diverse viticultural landscapes, boasts Margaret River and Great Southern as its preeminent wine destinations. Despite their geographical separation and distinct environmental conditions, both regions share a reputation for producing outstanding wines, complemented by breathtaking natural beauty and flourishing wine tourism. A delegation representing these regions journeyed to Bangkok, Thailand, to conduct masterclasses specifically tailored for the local wine trade. The initial session focused on the celebrated Cabernet Sauvignon from Margaret River, while the subsequent session spotlighted the Shiraz and Syrah expressions from the Great Southern region.

Located approximately 300 kilometers south of Perth, Margaret River has undergone a remarkable transformation over the past two decades, evolving into a highly sought-after wine hub. Despite accounting for merely 2% of Australia’s total grape crush, its influence is disproportionately significant, with wines exported to over 50 international markets. The region also attracts more than 1.5 million visitors annually to its numerous wineries. The masterclass, expertly led by prominent winemakers Julian Langworthy of Nocturne and Cliff Royle from Flametree Wines, explored Margaret River's exceptional suitability for Cabernet Sauvignon, discussing recent vintages and the ongoing stylistic evolution. Langworthy, drawing on his international experience in wine regions like France's Languedoc and Australia's Coonawarra, expressed renewed admiration for Margaret River's potential upon his return. He noted the region's capacity to produce 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with remarkable ripeness, yielding wines that are generous, opulent, elegant, fragrant, and vibrant. He underscored the critical role of tannin development, a defining feature of the region. Unlike other areas where sugar accumulation outpaces tannin maturation, Margaret River's cooler ripening season allows for a more harmonious development, a true advantage for Cabernet.

Royle emphasized the significant progress in viticulture over the last 10 to 15 years, which has profoundly shaped the region’s wines. He highlighted improved vine management, the introduction of superior clones, and the identification of optimal vineyard sites. He cited the 2001 and 2018 vintages as prime examples of this advancement, attributing their excellence to refined vineyard practices. The warm, mild 2022 vintage, characterized by lower yields, continued this positive trajectory. Langworthy added that Margaret River’s average yields are comparable to those of Champagne, at approximately 35 hectoliters per hectare. A notable shift in oak usage was evident across the six showcased wines, moving from new French oak to a blend of new and aged barrels in various sizes, including barriques, hogsheads, and puncheons. Both winemakers also addressed the implications of climate change. Langworthy observed that the region is experiencing increased dryness rather than significant warming. He highlighted widespread sustainability efforts, including the restoration of soil carbon, composting, and broader regenerative agricultural practices. Royle added that the unusually warm 2024 vintage served as a reminder of the need to adapt practices to prevailing challenges. Many wines featured the indigenous Houghton clone, unique to Margaret River, while producers also experiment with clones from South Australia and Bordeaux to enhance complexity. Royle concluded that the vast diversity of Cabernet in Margaret River is limitless, a statement powerfully affirmed by the wines presented.

The Great Southern region, considerably larger, more expansive, and geographically isolated, saw its viticultural potential recognized around the same period as Margaret River. However, their development paths diverged. In the last decade, Great Southern has emerged from relative obscurity, now sharing the spotlight with its regional counterpart. Several Margaret River wineries, including Howard Park and Cherubino, have extended their operations to the Great Southern, recognizing the strength of its cool-climate viticulture. These producers were part of the Bangkok delegation, showcasing their most robust offering: Shiraz. The late-afternoon masterclass, led by regional luminaries Mike Garland of Fervor and Patrick Corbett of Singlefile Wines, featured six different Shiraz and Syrah expressions from the Frankland River subregion, where the grape achieves its finest potential. The Great Southern encompasses five sub-regions: the hilly, granite-rich Porongurup, ideal for Pinot Noirs and Rieslings; the coastal towns of Albany and Denmark, heavily influenced by the Southern Ocean, perfect for early-ripening varietals like steely Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc; and the inland areas of Mount Barker and Frankland River, well-suited for Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Garland remarked that Great Southern Shiraz distinctly differs from other Australian expressions, particularly in its tannin structure and aromatics. He noted that it took nearly 50 years to fully grasp this distinction and adjust winemaking practices accordingly. He encouraged attendees to observe the “plushness of tannins” in these wines compared to those from other regions.

Garland also indicated a discernible shift away from heavy oak usage. He explained that in earlier years, winemakers often emulated South Australian practices, which involved a very liberal application of oak. Today, winemaking styles throughout the region favor larger format barrels and a more conservative approach to new oak, clearly demonstrated in wines like the Battles Frankland River Shiraz. The region’s extensive diversity was also evident in the free-pour session, which offered an eclectic selection including Vermentino, Semillon, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Cherubino founder Larry Cherubino expressed optimism regarding experimental plantings. He noted that Fiano shows significant promise in suitable locations, and there is genuine excitement about its potential. Similarly, Nebbiolo is a major focus, with substantial plantings already made, holding considerable promise for the future. The tasting garnered enthusiastic feedback, with Terry Chellappah of Plan B Wines reporting widespread positivity among attendees. As both Margaret River and the Great Southern continue to refine their winemaking techniques and embrace innovation, their wines are undeniably making a formidable global impact, with Bangkok being a prime example.