Fashion
The invitation for Gucci’s latest show was a reissued Enzo Mari design classic
2024-09-23

Gucci's Timeless Tribute: Enzo Mari's Perpetual Calendar Reborn in Iconic 'Ancora' Red

In a captivating move, Sabato De Sarno, the newly appointed creative director of Gucci, has unveiled a remarkable collaboration that pays homage to the brand's rich heritage and the enduring influence of Italian design. By reissuing the iconic 'Timor' perpetual calendar by renowned designer Enzo Mari, Gucci has seamlessly blended its iconic 'Ancora' red hue with a timeless design classic, creating a unique invitation to its Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear runway show.

Gucci's Timeless Invitation: A Captivating Blend of Heritage and Innovation

Rediscovering Design Icons

Sabato De Sarno's passion for design has long been a driving force behind his creative vision for Gucci. As he stepped into his role as the brand's creative director, he embarked on a journey to uncover and reinterpret some of the most iconic pieces of 20th-century Italian design. From the works of Nanda Vigo and Gae Aulenti to the creations of Piero Castiglioni and Mario Bellini, De Sarno has meticulously curated a collection that pays homage to these design legends, reinterpreting their masterpieces in Gucci's signature 'Ancora' red.

The 'Timor' Perpetual Calendar: A Timeless Invitation

Building upon his initial collection of reissued design classics, De Sarno has now added the 'Timor' perpetual calendar by Enzo Mari to Gucci's repertoire. Designed in 1967 for Danese, this captivating object served as the invitation to Gucci's S/S 2025 womenswear runway show, delivered to guests in a matching 'Ancora' red box. The unique invitation, which featured a Gucci motif on its body, not only served as a functional calendar but also embodied the essence of the collection's inspiration.

Capturing a Moment in Time

The choice of the 'Timor' perpetual calendar was no coincidence. De Sarno explains that the object's curving plastic design, from which the days, weeks, and months of the year fan outwards, perfectly encapsulates the collection's starting point – a celebration of "a precise moment in time... a moment to seize and live to the fullest." This sentiment is further echoed in the designer's description of the collection as a "tribute to those moments" and an "invitation to stop, seek your own moment."

A Runway Evocative of a Setting Sun

The Gucci S/S 2025 womenswear show, held at the Triennale Milano museum, a temple to design, was a true testament to De Sarno's vision. The runway, evocative of a setting sun, moved from yellow to orange to the iconic 'Ancora' red, creating a captivating and immersive experience for the audience. The collection itself embodied what the designer called a "casual grandeur," infusing everyday garments with joyful moments of craft, color, and embellishment, from sparkling crystals to beaded tassels and delicate lace.

Honoring the Legacy of Enzo Mari

The decision to showcase the 'Timor' perpetual calendar at the Gucci runway show was a deliberate nod to the brand's commitment to honoring the legacy of Italian design. Enzo Mari, the renowned designer behind the 'Timor,' had recently been the subject of a retrospective exhibition at the Triennale Milano, further cementing the significance of this collaboration. By reinterpreting this design classic in Gucci's signature hue, De Sarno has not only paid tribute to Mari's enduring influence but also woven it seamlessly into the fabric of Gucci's own creative narrative.

A Captivating Invitation to Seize the Moment

Gucci's reissue of the 'Timor' perpetual calendar in 'Ancora' red serves as a captivating invitation to the brand's S/S 2025 womenswear show, but it also represents a deeper exploration of the intersection between fashion, design, and the celebration of the present moment. By embracing the timeless elegance of Enzo Mari's creation and infusing it with Gucci's distinctive aesthetic, De Sarno has crafted a unique and compelling narrative that resonates with the brand's rich heritage and its vision for the future.
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