Marking a significant shift in its creative strategy, the iconic fashion house of Jean Paul Gaultier has announced the appointment of Dutch designer Duran Lantink as its permanent creative director. This decision brings an end to the brand's rotating designer model, which saw various guest talents helm couture collections since Gaultier's retirement from the runway in 2020. Praised by Gaultier himself for embodying the same daring and innovative spirit that defined his own career, Lantink is set to lead both couture and ready-to-wear lines, signaling a new chapter for the renowned fashion house.
In the years following Gaultier’s departure, the brand experimented with a series of high-profile guest designers, including Chitose Abe, Glenn Martens, and Olivier Rousteing. Each brought their unique vision to the couture collections, generating buzz and maintaining the brand’s relevance in the ever-evolving world of fashion. However, this approach also presented challenges, such as the need to recalibrate the atelier for each new designer and the potential lack of cohesion between couture and ready-to-wear offerings.
Duran Lantink, born in 1988, made waves in the industry with his bold and avant-garde designs. Since founding his label in 2016, he has championed upcycling, creating garments and accessories that challenge traditional notions of fashion. His work gained international recognition when American singer Janelle Monáe wore his "vagina pants" in her music video for 'Pynk' in 2018. Further accolades followed, including the Andam Special Prize in 2023 and the LVMH Prize’s Karl Lagerfeld Award in 2024, cementing his status as a creative force in the fashion world.
Lantink’s autumn/winter 2025 show was a testament to his radical vision, featuring groundbreaking designs that blurred gender boundaries. The presentation, which opened with a woman wearing a man’s chest plate and closed with a man donning a woman’s breast plate, sparked conversations about identity and expression in fashion. Earlier this month, he received the prestigious Woolmark Prize, where he emphasized the importance of pushing boundaries in an increasingly conservative industry.
The decision to appoint a permanent creative director reflects a broader industry trend toward stability and long-term vision. While the rotating designer model offered novelty and excitement, it lacked the consistency needed to develop a cohesive ready-to-wear line. By bringing Lantink on board, Jean Paul Gaultier aims to unify its creative direction while maintaining the provocative and boundary-pushing ethos that defines the brand.
With his debut ready-to-wear collection for spring/summer 2026 scheduled for September 2025 and his first couture collection to be unveiled in January 2026, Lantink is poised to redefine the legacy of Jean Paul Gaultier. As he steps into this role, the fashion world eagerly anticipates how his distinctive voice will shape the future of one of its most celebrated houses.