In the bustling world of fashion, the autumn/winter 2025 menswear collections brought a fresh wave of creativity and introspection. The season, which spanned from January 14 to March 3, saw designers pushing boundaries in unexpected ways. Notably, Simon Porte Jacquemus opted for an intimate presentation at Auguste Perret’s former residence in Paris, marking a departure from his previous grand spectacles. Meanwhile, Prada introduced a new world disorder with unconventional combinations, and Dior showcased its most beautiful collection yet under Kim Jones' direction. These events highlight a shift towards more meaningful and personal expressions in fashion.
Jacquemus’ decision to hold an understated presentation was a striking contrast to his earlier extravagant shows. By choosing a monochromatic theme and a historic venue, he aimed to present his designs without artifice. This move came after a whirlwind two weeks of fashion events that had left many feeling overwhelmed. The designer’s approach resonated with those seeking a more thoughtful engagement with fashion. In an industry often defined by spectacle, this intimate setting allowed for a deeper connection between the audience and the garments.
The Prada show, held at Fondazione Prada, was a visual exploration of contrasts. Models navigated through a labyrinthine structure adorned with diverse attire that defied conventional categorization. From piped pajama sets to rugged leather suits, each look seemed to tell a unique story. Miuccia Prada explained that this collection was a response to the current socio-political climate, emphasizing the importance of resisting conservatism through creativity. The collection’s eclectic mix highlighted the brand’s commitment to challenging norms and embracing innovation.
Dior’s autumn/winter 2025 collection under Kim Jones was a masterclass in elegance and craftsmanship. Drawing inspiration from Christian Dior’s iconic “H-Line” collection of 1954, Jones presented a series of tailored pieces that celebrated classic silhouettes. The models walked with blindfold ribbons, symbolizing a journey into the unknown. This collection not only honored the heritage of the house but also reflected on the transient nature of modern fashion. Following the show, Jones was awarded the prestigious Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur, underscoring his significant contributions to the industry.
Beyond the major houses, smaller brands like Willy Chavarria also made their mark. His presentation featured models walking to the sounds of Bishop Mariann Budde’s speech, adding a layer of social commentary to the event. This blend of fashion and activism demonstrated how designers can use their platforms to address contemporary issues. As the fashion calendar continued with stops in New York, London, and back to Milan and Paris, it became clear that the autumn/winter 2025 season was one of reflection and reinvention.
The autumn/winter 2025 menswear collections were a testament to the evolving landscape of fashion. Through intimate presentations, bold statements, and a return to craftsmanship, designers invited audiences to engage with their work on a deeper level. This season marked a shift towards more personal and meaningful expressions, encouraging both creators and consumers to cultivate discernment and develop a critical eye. Fashion, in its essence, remains a powerful medium for storytelling and self-expression.