When Pierpaolo Piccioli left his role as creative director at Valentino in 2024, the brand turned to Alessandro Michele to lead its future. The company’s CEO, Jacopo Venturini, highlighted Michele's passion for working with archives, which aligns perfectly with Valentino's rich history. Valentino Garavani, along with his business partner Giancarlo Giammetti, established a legacy that transcends fashion, becoming an integral part of Roman culture. While Michele grew up influenced by music and avant-garde designers like Vivienne Westwood, he found inspiration in Valentino's presence in Rome, comparing him to figures like the pope. Michele emphasizes that despite Valentino's classical image, he was a revolutionary figure who lived openly as a gay man during the '70s. Michele’s debut collection in Paris received mixed reactions, but it marked a significant shift in the brand’s direction, blending maximalist richness with refined craftsmanship.

The Legacy of Valentino: A Fusion of History and Innovation

Michele’s appointment as the new creative director of Valentino signifies a pivotal moment for the brand. With a deep respect for the house’s extensive archive, Michele aims to honor its past while pushing boundaries. Valentino Garavani’s influence on haute couture is undeniable, having dressed royalty and those who aspired to such elegance. Yet, Michele points out that Valentino was more than just a symbol of tradition; he was a trailblazer who challenged societal norms. By living openly as a gay man in the '70s, Valentino set a precedent for authenticity and freedom, qualities that resonate deeply with Michele’s own philosophy.

Valentino’s legacy extends beyond mere aesthetics. It represents a blend of opulence and rebellion, decadence and refinement. Michele finds inspiration in these contradictions, noting how Valentino’s life and work reflect a delicate balance between power and vulnerability. The designer’s approach to fashion is rooted in storytelling, where each piece becomes a narrative of the past. Michele believes that by engaging with Valentino’s relics—his designs, personal items, and memories—he can uncover untold stories about the man behind the brand. This connection allows Michele to reimagine Valentino’s heritage in ways that might not have been evident before. For Michele, the archive is not just a repository of designs but a living testament to Valentino’s innovative spirit and unconventional lifestyle.

Challenging Boundaries: Michele’s Vision for Valentino

Alessandro Michele’s arrival at Valentino marks a bold departure from the brand’s traditional image. His collection in Paris showcased a unique fusion of maximalist richness and refined craftsmanship, drawing both praise and criticism. Critics lauded Michele’s ability to breathe new life into Valentino’s legacy, while others accused him of repeating his work from Gucci. Despite the mixed reception, Michele remains committed to his vision of freedom and creativity. He sees fashion as a medium for self-expression, one that should transcend conventional boundaries. Michele’s approach challenges the rigid structures of haute couture, encouraging fluidity and innovation.

Michele’s philosophy centers on the idea of being “like water,” adapting and flowing through spaces to challenge established norms. This mindset is reflected in his designs, which blur the lines between past and present, tradition and modernity. The designer acknowledges that his playful accessories and bold aesthetics may provoke controversy, but he views this as a testament to the power of creativity. In a world where conformity often prevails, Michele’s work stands out as a celebration of individuality and freedom. He believes that true innovation comes from embracing one’s authentic self, regardless of societal expectations. Through his collections, Michele invites viewers to question their preconceptions and embrace the beauty of difference.