Paris Men's Fashion Week returned in full swing with a nostalgic flair, led by Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton. The event marked Saint Laurent's return to the official calendar after a two-and-a-half-year hiatus, showcasing a vibrant spring-summer 2026 collection infused with vintage elements reminiscent of founder Yves Saint Laurent. Meanwhile, Pharrell Williams presented a subdued yet elegant lineup for Vuitton, drawing A-list celebrities like Beyoncé and Jay-Z. Against a backdrop of shifting leadership and declining luxury sales, brands are rethinking their strategies while maintaining creative ambition. Emerging designers and international labels also joined the six-day spectacle, highlighting fashion’s evolving global narrative.
A Nostalgic Kickoff Under Parisian Lights
In the heart of Paris, beneath the shadow of the soon-to-be-renovated Pompidou Centre, the city’s men's fashion week commenced with a blend of bold nostalgia and refined elegance. Anthony Vaccarello made a triumphant return to the men’s fashion calendar with Saint Laurent’s exuberant spring-summer 2026 showcase. Models strutted in high-shouldered shorts, relaxed trench coats, and oversized sunglasses—an homage to the brand’s iconic founder. The show not only marked a stylistic throwback but also symbolized the label’s reintegration into the fashion elite after years away.
Across town, Pharrell Williams brought a softer, more earthy palette to the Vuitton runway, presenting flared trousers and layered shirts under the watchful eyes of music legends Beyoncé and Jay-Z. Complementing the looks were oversized trunks echoing the brand’s travel heritage. Among the front-row guests were NBA stars LeBron James and Victor Wembanyama, further elevating the star-studded affair.
Elsewhere, Japanese designer Ryota Iwai offered a breezy counterpoint with his Tokyo-based brand, blending beach-ready silhouettes with luxurious textures in a setting that combined light cashmere suits with flip-flops and bucket hats. As the week unfolded, anticipation built for Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior, where he is set to oversee all major design lines—a first since Christian Dior himself.
The week’s packed schedule stood in contrast to the scaled-back events in Milan and the complete cancellation of London’s shows, reinforcing Paris as a central hub for global menswear innovation.
Fashion’s Past as a Blueprint for the Future
As a journalist observing this season’s collections, one thing becomes clear—fashion is increasingly looking backward to move forward. The retro motifs dominating Saint Laurent and Vuitton’s presentations aren’t just aesthetic choices; they reflect a deeper industry trend. In times of economic uncertainty and leadership instability, brands are leaning on heritage and legacy to reconnect with consumers. Vaccarello’s return to the Paris calendar and Pharrell’s understated homage to Vuitton’s roots both signal a desire to ground modern creativity in history. This approach offers comfort to loyal customers while inviting new ones into the story. For emerging talents like Iwai and seasoned visionaries like Anderson, the message is consistent: authenticity, nostalgia, and craftsmanship remain key pillars in shaping the future of fashion.