Nestled in the East Village, Kabawa is transforming the legacy of Momofuku Ko into a vibrant Caribbean dining experience. The restaurant retains some architectural features but introduces bright colors and tropical mosaics, creating a warm atmosphere. Chef Paul Carmichael, a Barbadian native, brings his expertise from working under renowned chefs like Marcus Samuelsson and Wylie Dufresne to craft an innovative menu that highlights Caribbean ingredients and techniques. His approach blends scholarly depth with culinary creativity, offering a prix fixe menu that tells the story of the Caribbean itself rather than its diaspora.
Kabawa's success lies not only in its individual dishes but in the overall energy it exudes. The dining experience is both joyful and thought-provoking, featuring flavors like fresh yeast, green cucumber, and toasty curry leaves. While there are minor adjustments still being made, the restaurant stands as a testament to the early spirit of Momofuku, infusing New York's culinary scene with tropical vibrancy amidst a trend toward French and steakhouse cuisine. Adjacent Bar Kabawa complements this experience with tiki drinks and Caribbean snacks.
The Evolution of a Culinary Space
Kabawa reimagines the former Momofuku Ko space through a vibrant aesthetic while retaining key structural elements. Once adorned with dark tones, the room now bursts with color thanks to tropical mosaics and bright paint. Despite these changes, the large open kitchen remains central, maintaining its dramatic design reminiscent of a cruise ship funnel. This setup continues to influence the dining ambiance, where aroma clouds evoke memories of past meals yet introduce new scents such as yeast and curry leaves. The transformation signifies a shift away from Momofuku branding, emphasizing the unique identity forged by Chef Paul Carmichael.
The history of the location adds intrigue to Kabawa's narrative. Previously known for its tasting menu at Momofuku Ko, the venue has undergone a metamorphosis under Carmichael's leadership. His journey within the Momofuku empire, including stints at Má Pêche and Seiobo, culminates in this venture. Although subtle nods to David Chang remain—such as a stack of Lucky Peach magazines—the focus shifts towards celebrating Caribbean culture. This evolution reflects broader changes within the Momofuku group, which now prioritizes its identity beyond its founder’s fame, aligning closely with Carmichael's vision for Kabawa.
A Celebration of Caribbean Flavors
Chef Paul Carmichael crafts a prix fixe menu at Kabawa that celebrates Caribbean cuisine with both passion and academic rigor. Drawing on his background studying Caribbean ingredients and their historical context, he presents dishes that honor regional traditions while pushing boundaries. Highlights include octopus dressed with dog sauce, royal red shrimp inspired by Jamaican street food, and Indo-Caribbean bread courses paired with dips like eggplant chutney. Main courses feature black bass in coconut curry, shredded goat meat in sauce Creole, and a substantial Puerto Rican pork cut, accompanied by family-style sides that enhance the communal dining experience.
Each dish tells a story of the Caribbean, reflecting Carmichael's deep connection to his roots. For instance, when discussing tropical fruits, he shares anecdotes about earning trust from local suppliers, showcasing his dedication to authenticity. He consciously avoids overexposing popular items like jerk chicken, opting instead to highlight lesser-known delicacies across various islands. This approach ensures diners leave with a comprehensive understanding of Caribbean gastronomy. Even desserts contribute to this mission, balancing sweet treats with palate-cleansing fruits. The result is a dining experience that educates and delights, embodying the essence of Caribbean culture through every bite served at Kabawa.