Rosso di Montalcino, a wine historically seen as a secondary offering compared to its esteemed sibling, Brunello, is currently experiencing a remarkable renaissance. This period of revitalized focus has led to a redefinition of its identity, giving rise to two distinct stylistic approaches that underscore its inherent qualities and growing appeal among wine enthusiasts. The evolving perception of Rosso di Montalcino signifies a significant shift within the winemaking landscape of Tuscany.

For many years, Rosso di Montalcino was primarily viewed as a younger, more accessible version of Brunello, often produced from younger vines or as a means to utilize declassified Brunello grapes. However, recent trends indicate a departure from this traditional role. Wineries are increasingly dedicating resources to cultivating Rosso as a unique expression of Sangiovese, emphasizing its individual characteristics and versatility. This deliberate shift is fostering a deeper understanding of the terroir's potential and the grape's diverse expressions.

A recent exploration of the Montalcino region revealed the profound evolution of Rosso. Producers like Collemattoni now perceive Rosso not merely as a precursor to Brunello but as a wine possessing its own distinct personality. As an export manager from Collemattoni noted, while Brunello is a special occasion wine, Rosso offers an everyday enjoyment that broadens market appeal. This perspective is vital for wineries seeking to attract new consumers and build a loyal customer base for both their Rosso and Brunello offerings.

The burgeoning recognition of Rosso di Montalcino was further emphasized at a masterclass during the annual Red Montalcino event, where Bartolomei Giacomo, the new President of the Consorzio Vino del Brunello di Montalcino, lauded Rosso's ascent. He highlighted its growing distinction as a wine capable of exhibiting elegance, structure, and authority, dispelling the notion that it's merely a "headline" for Montalcino. Similarly, Cecilia Leoneschi, winemaker at Castiglion del Bosco, is pioneering single-vineyard Rosso expressions, showcasing the varied identities that can emerge from different raw materials and microclimates.

Wine expert Sarah Heller MW elaborated on the two emerging philosophies shaping Rosso di Montalcino: the 'always Rosso' and the 'Baby Brunello.' The 'always Rosso' style, often aged in glass to preserve its vibrant fruit characteristics, is designed for earlier consumption and offers an approachable yet sophisticated profile. This style resonates with contemporary wine drinkers seeking intellectual wines that are not overly extracted and provide immediate pleasure. Conversely, the 'Baby Brunello' aims for a more serious expression, often utilizing oak aging and higher extraction, serving as a more direct bridge to its grander counterpart.

Poggio di Sotto, located in the southern part of the appellation, exemplifies the innovative spirit behind the 'always Rosso' approach. Winemaker Leonardo Berti challenges conventional methods by refusing to predetermine which vineyard plots will yield Rosso or Brunello. Instead, wines are vinified by plot, and a blind tasting after two years of aging dictates whether a wine becomes a Rosso or continues its journey to become a Brunello. This process, as Berti explains, ensures that the wine's intrinsic quality guides its destiny, rather than preconceived notions or vineyard age. In challenging vintages, Rosso production can significantly increase, providing a consistent and quality offering to the market. This flexibility ensures that Rosso is not merely a byproduct but a deliberate and cherished creation.

The potential for aging Rosso di Montalcino is another aspect gaining significant attention, often surprising those familiar only with its more immediate consumption profile. Producers like Lucano Ciolfi at San Lorenzo suggest that Rosso can age gracefully for up to 20 years, developing complex tertiary aromas that enhance its appeal. A tasting of a 2005 Rosso at Poggio di Sotto, described as still vibrant with fruit and freshness tempered by savory notes, underscored this remarkable longevity. This aging capability presents an exciting market opportunity, particularly for the on-trade and hospitality sectors. Restaurants, for instance, can offer aged Rosso as a more accessible and adventurous alternative to older, more expensive Brunellos, allowing consumers to explore mature Tuscan Sangiovese without the significant investment typically required.

Despite its increasing quality and aging potential, some Rossos are now commanding prices in the range previously associated with Brunello. This upward trend reflects a growing recognition of Rosso's intrinsic value and its ability to fill a premium niche in the market. The evolution of Rosso di Montalcino from a mere understudy to a celebrated wine in its own right marks a pivotal moment for the region, offering diverse and compelling expressions of Sangiovese that appeal to a broad spectrum of wine lovers.