For nearly two decades, an extraordinary collaboration has flourished between two geographically and historically distinct wine regions: Burgundy, France, and Central Otago, New Zealand. This pioneering exchange program has transcended mere academic curiosity, evolving into a profound symbiotic relationship. It has not only enriched viticultural practices through cross-cultural immersion but also cultivated a deeper understanding of the intrinsic connection between humanity and the land. This initiative stands as a testament to the power of shared knowledge and mutual respect in fostering innovation and camaraderie within the global wine community.

A Journey of Discovery: Cultivating Connections Between Old World and New

The genesis of this remarkable exchange dates back to 2006. In that pivotal year, Sophie Conuron from Domaine Jean-Jacques Conuron, a esteemed figure in the Burgundy wine scene, embarked on a journey to the enchanting vineyards of Central Otago. Her visit was meticulously orchestrated by Nick Mills, the insightful winemaker and general manager of Rippon Vineyard, a prominent family estate in the region. Mills, having personally experienced the rich viticultural traditions of Burgundy during his studies in Beaune and apprenticeships at revered domains such as Domaine Jean-Jacques Conuron and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, recognised the immense potential for a reciprocal learning experience.

During her time in Central Otago, Conuron presented at the 2006 Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration, sharing profound insights into how Cistercian monastic practices had historically shaped and advanced the concept of 'terroir' in Burgundy. Her compelling narrative ignited an idea: an official student exchange program between these two celebrated Pinot Noir regions. The following year, in 2007, the inaugural Central Otago Burgundy Exchange (COBEX) was formally established. This ambitious undertaking saw local growers' associations and agricultural colleges from both regions meticulously coordinating the logistics, paving the way for a transformative cross-cultural immersion.

Annually, wineries in both Burgundy and Central Otago generously open their doors to host international interns, known as 'stagiaires.' These aspiring winemakers are provided with an unparalleled opportunity to experience an entire harvest season, delving deep into the host region's distinctive farming methods, winemaking techniques, and rich cultural heritage. This immersive experience has created profound ripple effects, influencing the viticultural approaches and human philosophies within both participating regions.

For the stagiaires journeying from Central Otago to the historic vineyards of Burgundy, the experience offers an invaluable perspective. Carolyn Murray, the astute general manager of the Central Otago Winegrowers Association, aptly articulates that this immersion provides insights into centuries of dedicated attention to specific vineyard sites. It cultivates an profound respect for the deep-rooted traditions that a young wine-producing country like New Zealand might not fully appreciate without such direct exposure.

Conversely, when Burgundian stagiaires arrive in Central Otago, they encounter a liberating environment. Murray explains that here, they can work within a fine wine-focused region unburdened by the intricate geographical and political constraints prevalent in their homeland. This freedom allows them to explore and innovate without the historical limitations they are accustomed to.

Ben Leen, a talented winemaker at Amisfield Winery and a 2022 COBEX participant in Burgundy, describes his experience as nothing short of a revelation. He recounts how walking through the vineyards with their owners, particularly in hallowed, almost whispered-about places like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, provided him with a profound, multi-layered understanding of 'terroir.' Leen highlights that in Burgundy, discussions rarely revolve around technical metrics like pH or residual sugar, but rather on a deeper, more intuitive comprehension of the wine's essence. This emphasis on holistic understanding dramatically shifted his approach upon his return, enabling him to perceive each vineyard block as an individual entity with its own distinct personality and voice throughout the seasons.

While Burgundy's influence on Central Otago's viticultural approach to physical 'terroir' is arguably more pronounced, the reverse is true for human culture. Nick Mills reflects that New Zealand's vast, untamed natural landscape fosters an incredible freedom of spirit. Here, individuals can conceptualize almost anything, unbound by centuries of historical layers that characterize Burgundy. In Burgundy, the Cistercian legacy, with its meticulously constructed walls, hierarchical structures, and codified degrees of holiness from site to site, creates a much more insular environment. However, Central Otago's youthful and expansive nature instills in the returning stagiaires a renewed sense of openness, as Mills eloquently observes.

Beyond the direct exchange of knowledge and cultural insights, this program has fostered deep emotional and financial bonds. The Central Otago Winegrowers Association notably contributed NZ$5,000 to the Association for the Restoration of the Abbaye de St-Vivant, a site intrinsically linked to the very genesis of the 'terroir' concept. In a touching reciprocal gesture, following the devastating Christchurch earthquake, Burgundian friends sent rare, old, and large-format bottles of their finest wines to New Zealand. These precious bottles were then auctioned, raising over NZ$40,000 for earthquake relief efforts. This enduring partnership, born from a thoughtful experiment, has not only refined viticultural techniques and broadened cultural perspectives but also blossomed into a lasting, unforeseen friendship with impacts rippling far beyond the realm of wine.