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Whimsical Comfort Food with a Local Twist at Food Talk
2025-04-11

Chef Donnie Suesens of Food Talk, located in the speakeasy Ulterior above Motiv in downtown Santa Cruz, reimagines classic comfort food using locally sourced ingredients. His menu features playful renditions of pub snacks and fast-food favorites like clam paté toast and a giant crunchwrap supreme. The intimate setting aims to bring people together over good food, leaving politics and differences aside.

Suesens draws inspiration from his childhood memories and creates dishes that evoke nostalgia while maintaining high-quality standards. Before joining Ulterior, he owned Café Sparrow in Aptos. Despite operating within a bar's constraints, such as a 21-and-over policy and early kitchen closing times, Suesens remains committed to supporting local farms and keeping prices affordable, ensuring everyone can enjoy his creations.

Nostalgic Comfort Meets Culinary Artistry

Chef Donnie Suesens transforms familiar comfort foods into artful creations at Food Talk. By blending nostalgic flavors with innovative techniques, he crafts dishes that pay homage to his past while offering something unique. Each item on the menu tells a story, whether it’s inspired by family traditions or neighborhood influences, all made with care and attention to detail.

Take the dinner plate-sized crunchwrap supreme, which reinterprets a fast-food classic with layers of homemade nacho cheese, Jack cheese, lettuce, pork belly or lamb, and a crunchy tostada shell, all wrapped in a tortilla. Another standout is the clam paté toast, served on Japanese milk bread and topped with an array of textures and flavors reminiscent of his grandmother’s clam dip. These dishes not only satisfy cravings but also celebrate the joy of sharing meals. Suesens elevates these items with quality ingredients and thoughtful preparation, ensuring diners indulge guilt-free while experiencing elevated versions of their favorite snacks.

Community-Centric Dining Experience

At Food Talk, Chef Donnie Suesens emphasizes the importance of community through his commitment to sourcing ingredients locally. Most produce comes directly from the downtown farmers market, while meats are sourced from Pajaro Pastures, a nearby ecological farm. This dedication ensures freshness and supports small businesses rather than large corporations. Even condiments like mango chutney and curry ketchup are handmade in-house, showcasing Suesens' passion for authenticity and sustainability.

The Forever Warped Burger exemplifies this philosophy, featuring a thick beef patty cooked to perfection, layered with homemade bacon-cherry jam, smoked onions, and a brioche bun, with the sole out-of-area ingredient being Gruyere cheese. Suesens keeps prices reasonable, allowing anyone to enjoy his cuisine without breaking the bank. Despite working within a bar environment, which includes a 21-and-over policy and limited kitchen hours, he maintains strong connections with local farms. His mission extends beyond just creating delicious food; it’s about fostering relationships and sustaining the community’s economy. For Suesens, supporting local businesses means giving back to those who support him, creating a cycle of mutual benefit that empowers everyone involved.

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