An analysis conducted by Colin Hay, Bordeaux correspondent for db, explores the reclassification of cru bourgeois wines set to take effect in 2025. This piece evaluates a selection of these wines, highlighting their consistent value despite current market conditions. The article addresses concerns about the classification system's credibility amidst fewer wines being included compared to previous editions. It also examines whether distinctions between different quality tiers—cru bourgeois, cru bourgeois supérieur, and cru bourgeois exceptionnel—are valid. Through tastings conducted in Paris using specific stemware, Hay concludes that the reclassification process has been thorough and effective, maintaining high standards across all levels.
The history of the cru bourgeois classification has faced challenges, particularly with the global fine wine market's complexities. As noted in prior analyses, the 2025 edition features significantly fewer wines than its predecessor, largely due to the absence of former crus bourgeois exceptionnels. Despite this reduction, questions remain regarding the evaluation process’s integrity and the wines' actual quality differences. To address these queries, l’Alliance des Crus Bourgeois de Médoc provided a representative sample spanning various appellations and quality levels. Tasted just before the unveiling at Vinexpo, these wines revealed several key insights.
Hay found that today's cru bourgeoisie wines exhibit distinct Médoc characteristics, demonstrating both high quality and consistency. They offer excellent value for money, reinforcing the classification system's reliability. Notably, his ratings after tasting 2025 samples ranged from 87 to 93+, averaging 90.30, slightly higher than those from the 2020 classification exercise. This suggests that even with fewer wines classified, quality remains stable or has improved.
Moreover, stylistic diversity within the upper-tier classifications is commendable. While some wines are rich and full-bodied with noticeable oak influence, others display refined elegance, showcasing their terroir uniquely. This capacity to recognize diverse styles reflects an evolution since the 2003 classification, which may have been less inclusive. Every wine tasted expresses its appellation identity effectively, a testament to advancements in vineyard management and winemaking techniques over two decades.
In conclusion, the 2025 cru bourgeois reclassification successfully upholds rigorous standards while embracing stylistic variety. Consumers can confidently purchase these wines knowing they reflect their origins accurately and consistently. This reclassification not only reassures buyers but also highlights the region's ongoing commitment to quality and innovation in winemaking practices.