Bolivia's winemaking heritage, spanning half a millennium, is experiencing a remarkable resurgence, drawing international attention to its unique traditions and indigenous grape varieties. This narrative delves into the ancient vineyards of the Cinti Valley and Samaipata, where centuries-old viticultural practices, such as growing vines on pink peppercorn trees, are not merely historical relics but thriving methods of cultivation. The dedication of local vintners, sommeliers, and restaurateurs is bringing these distinctive Bolivian wines, particularly those crafted from Criolla grapes, to the forefront of the global wine scene. This rebirth emphasizes a philosophy of small-scale, high-touch production that offers an authentic counterpoint to more commercial wine industries, providing an enriching taste of Bolivia's diverse terroir and vibrant agricultural community.

In the secluded Cinti Valley of southern Bolivia, grape varieties first planted by the Spanish in the late 1500s continue to flourish. These ancient vines, with their gnarled, robust trunks, ascend pink peppercorn trees, utilizing them as natural supports to elevate clusters towards the sun. This traditional method, born out of necessity centuries ago, remains a cost-effective and natural way to keep grapes off the ground. Andrea Moscoso-Weise, co-owner and sommelier of La Paz's Arami, highlights the unique "ecosystem" these vineyards foster, setting them apart from conventional viticulture.

During a recent visit to the La Caldera vineyard in Cinti, a group including Moscoso-Weise, Simon Avilés of Imilla Alzada, and Alejandro Medina of Bitoque winery, explored these historical sites. Their objective was to witness the unique cultivation, engage with the local custodians of these traditions, and sample the wines. The focus was on three principal Criolla varieties: Negra Criolla (also known as País or Mission), Moscatel (Muscat of Alexandria), and Vischoqueña, a natural hybrid of the two. These indigenous grapes, largely abandoned in the late 20th century in favor of international varieties like Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, are now central to Cinti's wine revival. While Tarija produces the majority of Bolivia's wine, Cinti stands as the heart of the Criolla comeback, emphasizing intimate, small-batch production that resonates with consumers seeking unique, handcrafted wines.

The Cinti Valley, with its striking red cliffs and arid landscapes, presents a stark contrast to Bolivia's more widely recognized Andean peaks and Amazonian jungles. Alejandro Medina, a Santa Barbara restaurateur, embarked on his winemaking journey in Bolivia, his father's homeland, starting the Bitoque winery. Despite his father's unexpected passing before the inaugural release, Medina persevered, now producing approximately 1,000 bottles annually. These Bitoque wines, characterized by their floral, fruity, and peppery notes, are a key component of the dining experience at Bibi Ji, an Indian restaurant in Santa Barbara, where they beautifully complement the assertive flavors of the cuisine. Medina’s initiative serves as a bridge, introducing American palates to the nuanced world of Bolivian wines, driven by a commitment to support the local economy and honor his family's legacy.

Villa Abecia, a quaint village in the Cinti Valley, maintains wine as its social lifeblood. Winemaker Jorge “Don Piti” Samos, who returned from La Paz to revitalize his family's wine business, exemplifies this dedication. Samos cultivates a small Moscatel vineyard and produces wine and singani under his Bodega La Encantada label. The rebuilding of his family's historic riverside bodega symbolizes a renewed commitment to these ancestral practices. Despite the broader challenges posed by Bolivia's political and economic instability, there's a growing optimism for the future of winemaking in Cinti. Diego Villamor, for instance, continues the biodynamic and Criolla-focused vision of his late brother Cristian at Bodega Tierra Roja, cultivating a diverse array of grapes and producing promising sparkling wines. The region's slow, deliberate pace of life, as noted by Simon Avilés, reflects a deep-seated respect for tradition and the natural rhythm of winemaking.

The historical significance of Cinti, once a crucial passage to the silver-rich city of Potosi, is still visible in its ancient chapels and adobe bodegas. The Yokich family, now in its fifth generation, continues this legacy, making wine and singani in a winery dating back to 1700. Their dedication to preserving centuries-old vine varieties, including their nursery that supplies the region, earned Bodegas y Viñedos Yokich an Old Vine Hero Award. Their traditional methods, such as layering old vines to create new, essentially young plants, ensure the survival of these invaluable genetic resources. Similarly, the Vacaflores family in Camargo, renowned for their easygoing approach and exceptional wines, including Bolivia's first Grenache aged in terracotta amphorae, exemplify the region's blend of historical pride and future-oriented collaboration, essential for small-scale agriculture.

In Samaipata, a historic wine region distinct from Cinti's dry redlands, Moscatel vines are poised to shape the future of Casa Charo, a celebrated destination restaurant. Owner Sukko Stach, alongside his chef Sofia Nogales, is pioneering wine and cider production from his hillside vineyard. Casa Charo offers an immersive eight-course culinary experience, showcasing local ingredients paired with an extensive selection of Bolivian beverages, including rare singanis. Stach’s commitment to Moscatel reflects its resilience and adaptability in Samaipata's unique semi-tropical highland climate, a testament to the region's enduring viticultural heritage since the Spanish first planted vines there in the 1560s. Vinos 1750, the largest winery in the region, also plays a crucial role, not only in producing international varieties but also in fostering the growth of local winemakers by sharing their facilities, promoting regional expansion and a harmonious relationship with nature. The evolving appreciation for these terroir-driven wines, which uniquely express their origins, underscores the rich and promising future of Bolivian winemaking.