Domaine Chanson, a historic Burgundy wine producer with roots tracing back to 1750, is currently undergoing a significant modernization drive led by Managing Director Vincent Avenel. This strategic overhaul involves a pivot towards increasing the proportion of domaine wines, moving away from a primary reliance on negociant activities. Furthermore, the company is actively exploring innovative winemaking techniques, including dealcoholization, to prepare for the challenges posed by changing climatic conditions, specifically rising alcohol levels in grapes. The winery's adaptation reflects a broader industry trend of embracing sustainability and responsiveness to global market shifts, while striving to balance tradition with contemporary demands.

Vincent Avenel's tenure at Domaine Chanson, which commenced in 2016, has been characterized by a forward-thinking approach aimed at revitalizing the esteemed institution. Prior to 2020, Chanson's wines, though of high quality, were known for requiring extensive aging before reaching their optimal drinking potential. The global pandemic, ironically, served as a catalyst for profound changes, enabling the producer to implement crucial strategic decisions. This period saw the development of a decade-long plan to rebalance the business model, reducing the dominance of negociant wines from 75% to a more even 50/50 split with domaine wines. A pivotal moment occurred in 2020 with the acquisition of a 45-hectare estate in Côte Chalonnaise, fundamentally reshaping the company's operational footprint and accelerating its shift towards greater estate wine production.

Under Avenel's leadership, in collaboration with cellar manager Lucy Auger and vineyard manager Justine Savoye, Domaine Chanson has moved away from a traditional 'one-man show' approach to a more collaborative and ego-free winemaking philosophy. With significant vineyard holdings across Côte de Beaune (43 hectares) and Côte Chalonnaise (45 hectares), the focus for their estate wines has evolved to produce vintages that not only possess remarkable aging potential but are also appealing in their youth. This stylistic adaptation caters to contemporary consumer preferences while maintaining the intrinsic quality synonymous with Burgundy wines.

A notable area of experimentation for Chanson has been the exploration of dealcoholized wines. Avenel openly acknowledges their attempt, and ultimate cessation, of producing a 0% red Burgundy, citing it as an unsuccessful endeavor despite ambitious goals. However, these trials were not in vain. Avenel emphasizes that these efforts were primarily undertaken to investigate techniques for mitigating high alcohol levels in wines, a growing concern driven by global warming. The warming climate directly impacts grape ripeness, potentially leading to excessively high alcohol content, and Chanson's proactive research in dealcoholization aims to equip them with methods to manage this challenge in future vintages.

The global wine landscape presents both opportunities and obstacles for Burgundy producers. Rising temperatures have contributed to reduced yields, making Burgundy wines increasingly expensive. Avenel points to the 2021 vintage as a key turning point when high global demand collided with low production, causing prices to surge dramatically. However, he observes a shift in sentiment, indicating that prices are beginning to stabilize. Recent figures show a promising increase in sales volumes and value for Burgundy, demonstrating its resilience even amid broader economic uncertainties, trade tariffs, and international conflicts affecting the fine wine market.

While the overall market remains strong for Chanson, the domestic French market has seen its share of sales decrease from 50% to 30%, primarily due to the higher price points of Burgundy wines making them less accessible to local consumers. Conversely, Japan has emerged as a significant growth market, becoming Domaine Chanson's top sales destination following a strategic partnership with Suntory's fine wine import division. This regional diversification highlights the fluid nature of international trade. The ongoing US tariff situation, however, remains a persistent challenge, creating an environment of unpredictability that hinders long-term planning and investment for producers. Despite the inherent difficulties, Avenel recognizes the critical importance of the US market, which accounts for 15-20% of their business, but also stresses that other markets exist. He also voices concern for American importers, logistics providers, restaurants, and retailers, who bear the brunt of such trade policies, potentially risking jobs within the US wine industry.