For too long, ros\u00e9 has been relegated to the sidelines of the wine world, often dismissed as a mere summery, uncomplicated drink. Yet, its journey from an overlooked category to a celebrated staple over the past two decades has been nothing short of remarkable. Despite this resurgence in popularity, a tapestry of misconceptions continues to shroud this delightful pink wine. It's time to peel back the layers of these popular 'facts' and unveil the true essence and versatility of ros\u00e9, revealing a much richer and more intricate story than commonly perceived.
Contrary to the simplistic notion that ros\u00e9 is merely a 'simple fruity wine,' many expressions defy this narrow definition. While a refreshing, fruit-forward profile is certainly a hallmark for many, a growing number of producers are pushing the boundaries of complexity. Oak aging, for instance, is not a new concept, with regions like Rioja traditionally employing it. Modern winemakers are also re-embracing older styles or experimenting with new oak vessels, as exemplified by Ch\u00e2teau d\u2019Esclans\u2019 esteemed Garrus. Beyond oak, techniques such as lees aging and maturation in ceramic or concrete vessels are being utilized to impart subtle textures and profound depth. Furthermore, the impact of bottle aging on ros\u00e9, often overlooked, can profoundly enhance its character, debunking the myth that all ros\u00e9s must be consumed super young.
While Provence has undoubtedly spearheaded the dry, zesty ros\u00e9 renaissance, influencing styles globally, it is far from the sole purveyor of quality pink wines. The perception that 'ros\u00e9 is basically just Provence' limits the exploration of an incredibly diverse world of styles and colors. A recent 'Drink Pink Wednesday' event in London showcased a staggering 200 different ros\u00e9s, ranging from pale, ethereal hues to rich, deep reds, demonstrating the vast spectrum available from various regions. These less-fashionable, often deeper-colored ros\u00e9s frequently offer exceptional value and a unique educational journey for the adventurous palate.
The idea that 'ros\u00e9 is okay on its own, but no good with food' is a profound misunderstanding. Industry experts, such as Stuart Skea from Edinburgh's Michelin-starred Lyla, emphatically challenge this notion, advocating for ros\u00e9 as an indispensable tool in a sommelier's repertoire. Skea highlights its excellent compatibility with sweeter shellfish like prawns, scallops, and lobster, while more full-bodied pinks beautifully complement lamb or tomato-based sauces. Classic pairings include salade ni\u00e7oise, grilled tuna (especially with the robustness of Bandol or Tavel), and even risotto Milanese with a Sangiovese ros\u00e9, proving its serious gastronomic potential.
The purist's admonition, 'you should never put ice in your ros\u00e9,' is often disregarded in its homeland, the south of France. A few well-placed ice cubes can be a perfectly acceptable solution for an unpleasantly warm bottle, particularly those with higher alcohol content, as long as it's consumed before excessive dilution. Similarly, the belief that 'ros\u00e9 is just a summer wine' fails to acknowledge the stylistic diversity that allows for year-round enjoyment. Some ros\u00e9s, like those from Schandl near Vienna, are crafted to be complex, multi-layered, and autumnal, pairing beautifully with heartier, cooler-weather dishes. Furthermore, while 'magnums of ros\u00e9 are just for showing off' might hold some truth, they also offer practical convenience for larger gatherings and can influence the perceived color, appearing darker in the bottle but lighter once poured. Finally, the adage 'the paler a ros\u00e9 the better it is' is a myth perpetuated by the Provence trend; excellence in ros\u00e9 transcends color, with many darker, less fashionable styles offering exceptional quality and value. And while 'ros\u00e9s should be drunk super young' is a common suggestion, certain 'ros\u00e9s of terroir,' such as those from Le Fraghe in Italy's Bardolino DOC, are designed to evolve and improve with bottle age, developing nuanced flavors beyond youthful thiol notes.
A final, critical point often missed is the vulnerability of ros\u00e9 to light strike, a fault that can mute flavors or, in severe cases, produce unpleasant off-notes reminiscent of cabbage or pond water. Despite the visual appeal of its color, which often dictates clear bottle choices, protecting ros\u00e9 from direct light is paramount to preserving its intended character. Treating ros\u00e9 like a delicate guest sensitive to light\u2014keeping it in a dark place at home, using an ice-bucket for serving, and even covering it with a tea towel outdoors\u2014ensures that every sip delivers the winemaker's vision.
This re-evaluation of ros\u00e9 wine encourages a more nuanced understanding, fostering appreciation for its complex winemaking techniques, diverse regional expressions, and surprising culinary versatility. By shedding old assumptions, drinkers can fully embrace the multifaceted world of ros\u00e9 and discover its true potential.