A Vintage Revolution: How the Wine World Unexpectedly Flourished

The Shifting Sands of Wine Criticism in the Early Days

In the nascent stages of modern wine journalism, a significant transition occurred at The Times newspaper. The esteemed Pamela Vandyke Price was succeeded by the then-young Jane MacQuitty. This generational handover sparked considerable debate, with seasoned voices questioning the merits of a more contemporary approach to wine commentary. The controversy, akin to a generous pour of Côtes du Rhône, even found its way into the pages of this very publication. From my perspective, I championed the fresh perspective, supporting Jane, who has since become an icon in her own right within the industry.

The Unforeseen Genesis of a Wine Renaissance

The global wine landscape has undergone more dramatic changes in the last fifty years than in any previous era. When Decanter magazine was founded in 1975 by Colin Parnell and the often volatile editor Tony Lord, the timing appeared profoundly unfortunate. Bordeaux, a cornerstone of the wine world, was grappling with plummeting prices and widespread scandals; just a year prior, Herman Cruse IV, from a prominent négociant lineage, tragically ended his life in the Gironde. European viticulture was increasingly reliant on herbicides and pesticides, rendering French vineyards uniformly barren during my initial visits. The Burgundies available then were often of dubious quality, and possibly even counterfeit. At the time, the UK was outside the European Economic Community, and I recall a label from my first Châteauneuf, which strangely bore the inscription 'Grand Vin de Bourgogne' beneath its appellation name.

Emerging from the Shadows: New Terroirs and Freedoms

During this tumultuous period, wine-producing nations in Central and Eastern Europe were ensnared in the Soviet Bloc's emphasis on maximizing output, with Georgia notably subsumed within the Soviet Union. Portugal's dictatorship had only recently concluded, as had Greece's military junta, and Spain remained under authoritarian rule. Miguel Torres had yet to venture into Chile, which itself was just beginning to experience military governance. The first contemporary vineyards in Marlborough were just being established, while Oregon and Washington's wine industries were still in their formative years. Australia's contribution to the UK market largely consisted of basic, mass-produced reds. The notion of Chinese wine was unthinkable, as the Cultural Revolution was merely drawing to a close under the control of the Gang of Four, with Mao still alive.

The Triumvirate of Transformation: Unlocking Wine's Potential

Then, a monumental shift began. From a fifty-year vantage point, Parnell and Lord's initial timing proved, serendipitously, to be impeccable: the wine world was poised to flourish like a cherry orchard in full bloom. Today, we reap the rewards: an abundance of magnificent wines, far surpassing anything available in the 1970s, sourced from an ever-expanding array of regions. While countless favorites abound, not all developments have been positive; the twenty-first-century trend of repositioning fine wines as luxury commodities, with prices often astronomically out of reach for most, is regrettable, though perhaps an inevitable consequence. What fueled this transformation? Three primary factors. Political change was paramount: the advent of democracy, notably the dissolution of the Soviet Union and the end of military dictatorships and apartheid, coupled with economic reforms and globalization, provided the entrepreneurial drive and commercial freedom essential for wine creation to thrive. Significant agricultural advancements also played a crucial role. Secondly, the rise of a global wine-consuming culture emerged, significantly aided by wine media, including Decanter, which played a modest part. The third factor, first identified by US scientist Wallace Broecker in 1975, was global warming. Most vintners have, to date, benefited from this 'Goldilocks zone,' as wine has reaped the rewards of numerous ripe vintages in regions where such conditions were once rare. Furthermore, areas previously deemed too cool for fine wine production, such as England, Ontario, Central Otago, the Adelaide Hills, and Gualtallary, are now flourishing.

Charting the Course for the Next Half-Century of Wine

The trajectory of the next fifty years rests squarely in our hands. We face crucial choices: embracing populist movements, erecting trade barriers, and dismantling free trade agreements, or striving to preserve the social fabric of our communities. We can succumb to the perilous comfort of denying climate change, or we can commit to the monumental transitional efforts now imperative. The extraordinary advancements in the wine world over the past half-century could either be jeopardized, perhaps even destroyed, or they could continue to thrive. The outcome depends on our collective decisions.

A Contemporary Delight: This Month's Featured Wine

What does half a century signify to a producer celebrating its 250th anniversary this year? Such is the case for Lanzarote's El Grifo. Yet, I doubt they have ever crafted a white wine as refreshing and delightful as their 2023 Lías Malvasía Volcánica. It captivates with blossom and apple aromas, followed by a lively, almost effervescent palate of fresh apple and floral notes. As the wine lingers, it gracefully transitions into a broad, saline finish. It is truly unforgettable, even before one beholds photographs of the extraordinary black volcanic vineyards where its grapes are cultivated.