Unleashing the Artistry: London Fashion Week's Boundary-Pushing Beauty Looks

Observing the beauty backstage at London Fashion Week for SS25, there is a palpable shift in the approach of make-up artists, hairstylists, and nail designers. The mood feels significantly more fearless, with expressive use of not only unexpected color combinations but also in its design.

Redefining the Runway: A Masterclass in Avant-Garde Beauty

Embracing the Unexpected

While the allure of a classic "no-makeup makeup" look and a bold red lip will always have its place, it's refreshing to see the glam teams and fashion designers pushing the boundaries of what beauty on the runways can encompass. Beauty has long been a tool for communicating ideas and stories, and the new generation of creative visionaries are seizing the opportunity to maximize its potential.

Painting the Runway with Vibrant Hues

At Ahluwalia, make-up artist Mata Mariélle, one of ELLE's beauty trailblazers, collaborated with MAC to create a light-reflecting "sunset lip" in an homage to designer Priya Ahluwalia's heritage. "Her collection is all about Jamaica and India and the idea of being home. When we think about home, it doesn't matter what time it is or where you are going, you come looking your best," shares Mariélle, known for her mastery of ombre techniques and statement colors paired with polished skin.

Embracing the Eclectic

Elsewhere, at Sinead Gorey, make-up artist Aoife Cullen lent her offbeat touch to create a vibrant array of beauty looks – from periwinkle eyeshadow with matching lashes to lips peppered with colorful sprinkles. Over at Chopova Lowena, lead artist Lauren Reynolds eschewed uniform looks for a refreshing breadth of patterns in a myriad of tones, ranging from neon rainbow eyes to tiny stars in highlighter shades of pink and yellow.

Collaborative Creativity

Reynolds shares, "I always like to start with the idea of a character and build from there, and Emma and Laura [the design duo behind Chopova Lowena] are the same. We had a huge document on the go with hundreds of references, from gymnasts to flappers to vintage saloon girls and girly decorative face painting, with all the swirls and gems. That's where those colorful crystals came from." This collaborative approach allowed for a true synergy between the beauty and fashion teams, resulting in a captivating and cohesive vision.

Tapping into the Realm of Play and Performance

Hair also took center stage, with revered hairstylist Cyndia Harvey at Simone Rocha tapping into the realm of play and performance, inspired by the collection. "It combines the essence of couture but with that naïve playfulness, the signature of a Simone Rocha collection," she shares backstage while spritzing generous amounts of Bumble & Bumble Thickening Dryspun Texture Spray to achieve a refined, yet lived-in finish complete with bejeweled barrettes.

Textural Transformations

At Chet Lo, hairstylist Anna Cofone, in collaboration with Authentic Beauty Concept, worked with wefts of hair inspired by fabric swatches from the collection, creating a custom textured look. Sixties-style bouffants were given a modern twist by way of textured finishes at Bora Aksu by Syd Hayes, while Tolu Coker paired its beehives (created by Toni & Guy's Efi Davies) with graphic swooshes of white eyeshadow.

Nailing the Runway

Nails have also taken center stage, with hand-sewn crystal tassels gracing models' hands, designed by nail artist Ama Quashie, who also created the "petal drop" manicures at Nensi Dojaka. At Chopova Lowena, manicurist Ella Vivii looked to "cutlery and keys" to design a catalogue of seven designs with 24 variations, resulting in a visual feast.

Honoring the Legends, Inspiring the Future

The British beauty scene is home to visionary industry legends that continue to inspire the new generation, from Pat McGrath and Val Garland to Sam McKnight. As Reynolds notes, "Thomas De Kluyver [who did the make-up at Simone Rocha] was my mentor; he's a great inspiration to me. He taught me the importance of research and developing your ideas, and everything he does, even when it's wild, has this beauty and exquisiteness. It can be fearless, but it's very intentional and people always look beautiful."The fresh cohort of backstage creatives are re-thinking beauty at fashion week, and their imaginative approach not only serves much-needed escapism but also gives people everywhere a license to play and experiment with beauty, to understand that makeup, hair, and nails can go beyond the realms of "pretty" and tell a new story – one that's entirely their own, free from any prescriptive rules. The future of beauty on the runway is poised to be a captivating and boundary-pushing journey, and we can't wait to see what unfolds.