When Drew Horton, a winemaker, relocated from California, a renowned wine region, to Minnesota in 2010, he harbored significant reservations. His primary concern revolved around adapting to Frontenac, a cold-climate red grape extensively cultivated in Minnesota, a varietal entirely unfamiliar to his Californian experience. Nevertheless, Horton's tenure as the inaugural winemaker at Chankaska Creek Ranch for three years proved exceptionally successful, culminating in the winery being recognized as the state's best by the Minneapolis Star Tribune. Today, as an enology specialist at the University of Minnesota and a prominent local wine authority, it's clear his initial apprehensions about Frontenac were unfounded.

Frontenac, though not as universally recognized as varietals like Merlot or Syrah, has solidified its position as a robust and reliable grape. Originating from a cross between Riparia 89 and the French-American hybrid Landot Noir at the University of Minnesota nearly four decades ago, this grape was specifically engineered for resilience, capable of withstanding temperatures as low as -35°F. Its dark-hued juice offers a distinctly fruit-forward character, marked by cherry and plum aromas, alongside minimal tannins. Like many grapes suited to cold climates, Frontenac possesses naturally high acidity—typically two to three times that of Merlot when harvested at comparable ripeness. This characteristic makes it an excellent choice for crafting sweet and even Port-style wines, and it also lends itself well to producing crisp, dry rosés. Horton emphasizes that high-quality dry reds are achievable from Frontenac, provided the grapes reach optimal ripeness on the vine and undergo specific winemaking processes such as malolactic fermentation, oak aging, and cold stabilization. Winemakers can even employ amelioration, adding a small amount of water to unfermented grapes, to temper acidity while preserving the grape's inherent character.

The journey of Frontenac is still in its nascent stages when compared to traditional Vitis vinifera varieties. As Horton notes, there remains a vast amount to uncover about this relatively new grape. The ongoing research and learning are poised to continuously enhance its quality and expand its winemaking potential, signaling a bright future for this resilient varietal.

The narrative of Frontenac grape highlights the indomitable spirit of innovation and adaptation within the agricultural and winemaking sectors. It underscores the profound idea that with persistent effort, careful study, and a willingness to embrace new possibilities, even seemingly challenging environments can yield extraordinary results. This continuous pursuit of knowledge and refinement not only elevates the quality of what we produce but also inspires a positive outlook towards overcoming obstacles, demonstrating that true potential is often found in venturing beyond conventional boundaries.