This immersive nine-day odyssey through Iceland's captivating landscapes offers an unparalleled exploration of its emerging craft beer culture, traversing the entire Ring Road. Beyond the spectacular waterfalls, majestic glaciers, and vast expanses of volcanic terrain, this journey unveils a network of passionate brewers. These artisans are transforming unexpected spaces—from former slaughterhouses to remote fishing facilities—into vibrant hubs of brewing innovation. The narrative weaves together personal anecdotes of a unique road trip with insightful details about the diverse breweries encountered, highlighting the resilience and creativity that define Iceland's brewing industry. It's a testament to the fact that exceptional beer can be found in the most improbable corners of the world, making this expedition a blend of natural beauty and remarkable liquid craftsmanship.
The expedition commenced with a distinct lack of conventional day-night cycles, as a persistent cloudy sky veiled any traditional sunrise or sunset, giving the sensation of an unending twilight. Our compact Suzuki Vitara, affectionately nicknamed a 'tin can on wheels,' navigated through an ever-changing panorama. One day presented a stark, lunar-like surface of dark pebbles and craters—a landscape so alien that it's used for astronaut training. The next, the vehicle contended with slushy roads and unpredictable wind gusts, challenging its stability. Other segments of the journey offered the serene company of towering mountains, where crystal-clear streams gracefully descended into powerful waterfalls, which in turn flowed into deep fjords. The sheer variety of the terrain was a constant source of wonder, underscoring the dramatic geological forces at play across the island.
This journey, unlike previous ventures, focused on an ambitious goal: visiting nearly every operational brewery in Iceland. The author was accompanied by Tim Webb, a celebrated beer authority known for his extensive travels and seminal works like 'The World Atlas of Beer.' Webb, a seasoned adventurer with visits to over ninety countries under his belt, provided a rich tapestry of travel stories and keen observations. His presence transformed the road trip into an educational and entertaining dialogue, as insights flowed as freely as the beer. Conversations spanned from the nuances of obscure beer styles to fascinating anecdotes of his global expeditions, underscoring the depth of experience he brought to the journey. Despite his vast knowledge, Webb's discerning palate offered concise yet profound critiques of the beers, his highest praise being the simple declaration of finding 'no flaws' in a brew.
The extensive road trip, covering over 800 miles and including daily stops at one to three breweries, fostered deep conversations and a shared appreciation for Iceland's unique beer landscape. Despite the commonly held belief that sheep outnumber people and breweries in Iceland, the travelers discovered a surprisingly vibrant and welcoming beer community. Brewery owners, even in the most isolated locations, extended warm hospitality, eager to share their craft and express their astonishment at the visitors' dedication. This collaborative spirit between a renowned British beer writer and a West Coast magazine editor created an extraordinary dynamic, highlighting a shared passion for good craft beer in a land where daylight lingered endlessly during their summer visit.
Iceland's brewing narrative is distinct, heavily influenced by a nearly seventy-five-year prohibition on beer that only ended in 1989. This historical anomaly has significantly shaped the trajectory of its craft beer industry. Conversations with local brewers, like Toggi of Horn Brewery, revealed the lingering social stigma around alcohol consumption, a societal hangover from the prohibition era. Legal restrictions further complicate matters, with the state-run Vínbúðin holding a near monopoly on beer sales, creating hurdles for smaller, independent breweries. This system, while ensuring some market access, heavily favors larger, established breweries, impeding wider distribution for craft producers. Despite these challenges, Iceland's first craft brewery, Bruggsmiðjan Kaldi, only emerged in the early 2000s, marking a relatively recent but determined shift in the country's beer landscape. This nascent industry, though small, is driven by an intense pride, with brewers often weaving local folklore, mythical figures, and regional characteristics into their beer names and branding, transforming former industrial spaces like slaughterhouses and fishing factories into innovative brewing sites.
The expedition began near Reykjavik at Ölverk, a geothermal-powered pizzeria and brewery that stands as an ideal starting point for a beer-focused tour. Its clean beer styles, such as the German Pilsner, perfectly complement their wood-fired pizzas, offering a hearty welcome to the Icelandic culinary and brewing scene. Following this, an adventurous detour to the Westman Islands led to a challenging, though ultimately rewarding, hike up Eldfell volcano on Heimaey, a decision that provided both breathtaking views and a comical near-disaster due to unpreparedness. Subsequently, The Brothers Brewery on Heimaey offered a well-deserved respite, with their Eldfell Red Ale honoring the very volcano that challenged the travelers. Founded by two friends with no prior brewing experience, this brewery embodies a local ethos, incorporating ingredients like local seaweed into their brews and producing award-winning imperial stouts without adjuncts, showcasing an innovative approach to traditional styles.
Continuing the journey eastward, Smiðjan Brugghús in Vík presented a unique combination of bold beers and American-style barbecue, serving up St. Louis-style ribs and a crisp German-style pilsner, 'Slip.' A two-and-a-half-hour drive led to the majestic Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, where colossal icebergs break off from the glacier and drift towards the Atlantic Ocean, a stunning natural spectacle despite a canceled boat tour due to high winds. Further along, Horn Brugghús in Höfn, founded by Toggi, a local entrepreneur with a background in the restaurant industry, offered a true local experience. Named after the Vestra-Horn Mountain, this brewery prides itself on serving its community with beers like 'The Local,' a classic light lager, and 'The Lobster,' a stout infused with lobster stock as a nod to the building's past as a fishing facility. Toggi's commitment to consistent quality rather than fleeting trends reflects the burgeoning local pride found in Iceland's craft beer scene.
Further along the eastern coast, Beljandi Brugghús in Breiðalsvík, housed in a former slaughterhouse, is a testament to rural revitalization. In a village of just 140 people, this brewery has become a vital attraction, drawing visitors with its fresh craft beer and stunning fjord views. The interior, reminiscent of an old hunting lodge adorned with a bar made of Icelandic coins, exudes a strong sense of local heritage. Head brewer Atli Þór Ægisson proudly presented their core offerings: 'Sauður' (a brown ale), 'Brómeó' (a blackberry sour with skyr), and 'Heiða' (a hoppy German-style lager), emphasizing the deep local pride and community impact of their remote operation. A quirky, yet fascinating, stop was Petra's Stone Collection in Stöðvarfjörður, a massive private collection of rocks and minerals that provides a unique glimpse into Iceland's geological history and one woman's lifelong passion. The day concluded in Egilsstaðir at Askur Taproom, a vibrant brewery collective that offers a wide array of beers from various local brewers, creating a bustling Friday night hub for locals and travelers alike, complete with delicious food and lively atmosphere.
The journey progressed northeastward, leading to KHB Brugghús in Borgarfjörður eystri, a remote coastal village with a population of only one hundred. This brewery, surprisingly, produces one of Iceland's finest Czech pilsners, 'Borghildur,' a testament to a unique collaboration with Josef Krýsl, a former Pilsner Urquell brewmaster who was fortuitously stranded in the village during the 'COVID summer' of 2021. Krýsl’s impromptu mentorship profoundly influenced KHB's brewing philosophy, resulting in world-class lagers. Nearby, Hafnarhólmi, or Puffin Island, offered an intimate encounter with thousands of nesting puffins, a truly unmissable activity during nesting season. The route then continued to Mývatn Öl, a nanobrewery housed within a souvenir shop, offering distinct beers like the Geysir Bread IPA, which incorporates geothermal-baked bread, celebrating the region’s unique geological activity. The day also included a stop at Goðafoss Waterfall, a breathtaking natural landmark, before concluding in Húsavík, the whale-watching capital, offering a well-deserved rest day with diverse activities.
Day five was dedicated to exploring Húsavík, offering a much-needed break from constant driving. Activities included a serene hike to Botnsvatn lake, providing picturesque views despite the no-swimming advisory. The town also surprisingly hosts the Húsavík Eurovision Exhibition, a quirky yet engaging museum dedicated to the popular European song contest and its Netflix film adaptation. Although high winds prevented a whale-watching excursion, Húsavík is renowned for its nutrient-rich bay, which attracts various whale species, making it a prime location for such tours under calmer conditions. The GeoSea Geothermal Sea Baths offered a luxurious and relaxing experience, with infinity pools overlooking the bay, providing a perfect opportunity to unwind while observing the scenery. Finally, Húsavík Öl, located in an old milk factory, proved to be a vibrant hub with its diverse and creative beer selection, including a rice lager collaboration and a dark mild, reflecting the innovative spirit of Icelandic craft brewing.
The itinerary's sixth day brought the travelers to Árskógssandur, home to Bruggsmiðjan Kaldi, Iceland's pioneering craft brewery. Greeted by the enthusiastic Siggi, whose family has run the brewery for nearly two decades, the visitors were introduced to Kaldi's Czech-influenced beers, particularly their flagship Ljos Czech pilsner. This beer, brewed according to the Reinheitsgebot, epitomizes the brewery's commitment to quality and tradition, utilizing a custom-built brewhouse designed for decoction mashing. The family's deep roots in the fishing industry and the brewery's reliance on pristine Icelandic water are central to Kaldi's identity. Beyond the brewing operations, Kaldi also offers the unique Bjórböðin Beer Baths, where visitors can soak in young lager while enjoying fresh beer from a private tap, an entrepreneurial venture conceived by Siggi’s mother, Agnes. This innovative spa experience, coupled with the brewery's rich history and family-centric approach, underscores Kaldi’s multifaceted contribution to both Icelandic tourism and its burgeoning craft beer scene, proving that even in remote locations, bold ideas can flourish.
As the journey continued into North Iceland on day seven, Siglufjörður offered a glimpse into its past at the Herring Era Museum, a comprehensive maritime museum housed in an old salting station that chronicles the town's once-vital herring industry. Following this historical immersion, Segull 67 Brugghús provided a modern counterpoint. This brewery, whose name 'Segull' translates to 'magnet,' symbolizes constant forward movement, embodying the entrepreneurial spirit of owner Marteinn B. Haraldsson. Housed in a massive former fish processing factory, the brewery produces classic beer styles alongside a burgeoning distillery that incorporates local Icelandic botanicals. Further inland, the Icelandic Beer Center (Bjórsetur Íslands) in Hólar, a tiny university town, presented a unique, non-profit brewing endeavor. Run by Professor Bjarni Kristjánsson, this microbrewery operates on an ad-hoc basis, offering a fascinating, intimate glimpse into the experimental side of Icelandic brewing, where rules are few and creativity thrives. The unpredictable nature of finding it open only added to its charm, making it a historical and truly unique stop.
The eighth day led to Iceland's remote Northwest, beginning with a scenic drive along multiple fjords to Hólmavík, home of Galdur Brugghús. This brewery, whose name means 'magic,' leans into the town's rich history of witchcraft and sorcery, with its taproom adorned with mystical runes and paintings. Master brewer Philipp Ewer, a German transplant, crafts beers like 'Vofa,' an altbier, and 'Kukl,' a Vienna-style lager, playfully incorporating themes of local lore and even licorice root. The journey continued to Isafjörður, where Dokkan Brugghús, the most remote brewery in Iceland, awaited. Opened in 2017, Dokkan leverages the region's incredibly pure, low-mineral water, believing it significantly enhances their brews, such as the 'DYNJANDI IPA' and the unique 'Djúpið' red ale, which incorporates seaweed, offering subtle marine notes. The day concluded with a communal seafood feast at Tjöruhúsið, an acclaimed fish restaurant in Isafjörður that serves fresh, locally caught seafood buffet-style, providing a fitting end to a day of remote exploration and unique brews.
On the final day, the journey circled back to Reykjavik, concluding the extensive Ring Road exploration. While the companions opted for a long drive back, the author took a short prop plane flight from Isafjörður, landing at Reykjavik Domestic Airport. This provided a few hours to wander the city before catching an international flight from Keflavík. The concluding brewery stop was Ægir 101 Bar Taproom, centrally located in Reykjavik's vibrant 'rainbow street.' It offered a relaxed atmosphere for a final Icelandic pint, with the Blíða dry Irish stout providing a smooth, flavorful close to the trip. A serendipitous encounter with street artist Kalli Youze, whose murals had been admired earlier, perfectly encapsulated the unexpected and enriching experiences of the entire journey. The trip ended, as it began, with a sense of wonder and appreciation for Iceland's unique blend of natural beauty, resilient communities, and burgeoning craft beer scene.
This extensive journey provided an insightful overview of Iceland's dynamic craft beer scene, revealing how local entrepreneurs have harnessed the island's unique resources and historical context to forge distinct brewing identities. From the geothermally powered Ölverk to the family-run Kaldi, each brewery reflects a deep connection to its surroundings, often transforming disused industrial spaces into thriving community hubs. The unwavering dedication of these brewers, who navigate challenging legal frameworks and remote locations, underscores a profound pride in their craft and their heritage. This tour not only celebrated exceptional beers but also illuminated the resilience and creativity that define Iceland's character, proving that its vibrant landscapes are matched only by the passionate spirit of its people and their commitment to crafting remarkable brews.