Milan Fashion Week Embraces a Refreshed Schedule, Promising an Exhilarating Season Ahead

The upcoming Milan Fashion Week is set to captivate the fashion world with a slight shift in its scheduling, offering a much-needed respite in an otherwise packed program. Carlo Capasa, the president of Camera della Moda, the organizing body behind the event, expressed his satisfaction with this "synergetic effort" by the key players in the fashion circuit, who had long been requesting an extension of the Milan Fashion Week to accommodate its extensive calendar of over 200 appointments.

Unveiling the Sartorial Splendor of Milan's Finest

Marni's Homecoming and the Pursuit of Beauty

After a global tour that took it to New York and Tokyo, Marni's Francesco Risso has returned to his Milan roots for the Spring/Summer 2025 season. Risso chose to stage the show at Marni's headquarters on Viale Umbria, transforming the vast concrete hall into a theatrical setting. Three pianos, led by musician Dev Hynes, set the tone as models emerged in threes, weaving through the alternating angles of bistro chairs on the floor.Risso's collection marked a departure from the raw creativity of recent seasons, instead embracing a refined sense of glamour and polish, albeit with his signature offbeat flair. Midcentury silhouettes took center stage, with narrow-waisted dresses adorned in floral prints, opera coats gently slipping off the shoulders, and dramatic headwear featuring "feathers" crafted from cut-out paper. A masculine edge was introduced through broad tailoring, leather jackets, and high-waisted trousers, reminiscent of 1960s greasers. The finale saw a flurry of flared, couture-like gowns, adorned with crystal flowers, as Risso sought to capture the "romance of Marni" – a "lingering desire to go chasing rabbits."

Fendi's Centenary Celebration: A Fusion of Eras

As Fendi's Milan headquarters undergo renovations, the house's creative director, Kim Jones, took the show to a vast soundstage on the city's outskirts. Marking the brand's centenary year, Jones drew inspiration from the 1920s, the decade in which Fendi was founded as a leather goods manufacturer. The collection embodied a feminine modernity, with diaphanous, flapper-inspired dresses, sinuous sheer layers, and intricate crystal embellishments that served as a bridge to the house's couture offerings.The stark white runway set, centered on an enormous box that opened to reveal a glimmering tableau of models, provided a striking contrast to the languid glamour of the garments. Jones explained that the foundations of modern women's fashion and thought can be traced back to the 1920s, a period of "modernity in style and attitude." This intermingling of eras was further reflected in the soundtrack, which juxtaposed a soaring Max Richter composition with excerpts of a conversation between Fendi scions Anna Fendi and Silvia Venturini Fendi, discussing the brand's origins. Jones' latest Fendi collection seamlessly blended the past and present, delivering a romantic and modern vision for the house's centenary celebration.

A Diverse Lineup: From Established Powerhouses to Emerging Talents

The Milan Fashion Week schedule is brimming with anticipated shows from the industry's established powerhouses, including Gucci, Versace, Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, and Prada. Prada's presentation is expected to continue the "fairytale ravescape" aesthetic unveiled at its menswear show in June.However, the week will also see the absence of some notable names, such as Tom Ford, whose new creative director, Haider Ackermann, will debut next year, and Giorgio Armani, which will showcase its collection in New York as part of the designer's 90th birthday celebrations. MSGM and Blumarine, where David Koma will present his first collection next season, are also missing from the lineup.Amidst the established brands, Milan Fashion Week will also shine a spotlight on emerging talent, with Central Saint Martins graduate Susan Fang set to present her latest collection with the support of Dolce & Gabbana on Sunday morning.As the fashion world eagerly awaits the unveiling of these diverse collections, the stage is set for an exhilarating and visually captivating Milan Fashion Week, where the past, present, and future of fashion will converge in a celebration of sartorial excellence.