In the heart of Bangkok, Jaang’s Warehouse Bar offers a unique twist on sato, a traditional Thai rice beer made from sticky rice. This clear, sparkling beverage, served cold in wine glasses, has gained popularity for its refreshing taste and balanced sweetness. Despite being crafted without malt or hops, it appeals to both beer and wine enthusiasts. Served at about 6 percent ABV, this drink thrives in the tropical climate, offering a light yet flavorful experience. Sato, traditionally rooted in rural northeastern Thailand, is now experiencing a renaissance as craft brewers and trendy bars embrace its rich heritage and adapt it to modern tastes.

Sato's production hinges on two essential elements: sticky rice and a mysterious fermentation starter called luk paeng. Luk paeng, a dried ball of starch containing molds, yeasts, bacteria, and various herbs and spices, plays a crucial role in converting rice starch into fermentable sugars. The exact composition of luk paeng remains elusive, varying widely across different sources. A 2023 study revealed that no two batches of luk paeng are identical, each harboring a diverse array of microbes and botanicals. This unpredictability adds an enigmatic charm to sato, making every batch unique.

The brewing process begins with soaking and steaming the sticky rice, followed by mixing it with powdered luk paeng. The mixture ferments in a plastic container at ambient temperature for about two weeks. After adding water, the fermentation intensifies, and the liquid is strained to remove rice solids. Some producers, like Surachae Phuenmueang near Chiang Mai, refine their sato further by "cold crashing" it for a week before bottling. Their finished product, Khao Cheevit, boasts a 12 percent ABV, presenting a sweet yet balanced profile with subtle floral and stone-fruit notes.

Modern interpretations of sato have emerged in urban settings, blending tradition with innovation. At Jaang’s Warehouse Bar, owner Chang Kijtiwetchakul serves a carbonated version of sato, which has won praise for its resemblance to high-end sake. Craft breweries like Devanom in Nonthaburi are experimenting with pure cultures of Amylomyces rouxii mold and various yeast strains to achieve consistency while preserving the drink's cultural essence. These brewers aim to differentiate sato from other Asian rice beverages, emphasizing its distinct flavor profile and adaptability to new flavors such as mango, hibiscus, and hops.

The revival of sato signifies a broader appreciation for Thailand's culinary and cultural traditions. As more Thais and foreigners discover this ancient brew, it is evolving into a symbol of national pride and innovation. Whether enjoyed in rural villages or trendy city bars, sato continues to captivate with its rich history and versatile character. The future of sato looks promising, with artisans and brewers finding creative ways to honor its legacy while introducing it to new audiences.