A legislative proposal in California aims to prohibit the sale of anti-aging skincare products to individuals under the age of 18. This initiative, reintroduced by Assemblyman Alex Lee after failing to pass in 2024, seeks to protect young people from potential harm caused by adult-oriented skincare ingredients. The bill focuses on substances like Vitamin A derivatives and alpha hydroxy acids, which dermatologists warn can cause skin irritation and long-term damage when used improperly by minors. The move aligns with broader concerns about the "Sephora kids" trend, where preteens embrace multi-step skincare routines popularized on social media platforms.
The proposed legislation, AB 728, targets skincare items containing active ingredients such as retinoids, retinol, and alpha hydroxy acid. These compounds are commonly marketed for their anti-aging properties but pose risks to sensitive, developing skin. Retailers would be required to verify the age of purchasers if uncertainty arises, reflecting measures already in place for alcohol and tobacco sales. Assemblyman Lee emphasizes the potential for irreversible damage when these products are misused by children, citing both physical and psychological implications tied to unrealistic beauty standards.
Dermatologists, including Marisa Garshick from MDCS Dermatology, caution against exposing young skin to potent active ingredients. She notes that while some adolescents might benefit from specific treatments under medical supervision—such as those addressing acne—the general use of such products by minors is unnecessary and potentially harmful. Ingredients like retinol stimulate cell turnover and collagen production, yet they also increase photosensitivity and may disrupt the skin barrier, leading to redness, dryness, and irritation.
Beyond the legislative debate, the phenomenon known as "Sephora kids" highlights how social media influences younger generations' engagement with beauty products. Videos showcasing preteens enthusiastically shopping at cosmetics stores have sparked discussions about appropriate skincare practices for this demographic. Shannon Humphrey, a clinical associate professor, shares insights from her own family, noting that her daughter's interest in skincare stems more from social interactions than online trends. She advocates for simplicity in skincare routines, recommending gentle cleansers, moisturizers, and sun protection as sufficient for most children.
Ultimately, the proposed law underscores a growing awareness of the risks associated with premature exposure to advanced skincare regimens. By restricting access to certain products, lawmakers aim to safeguard the health and well-being of young Californians, encouraging responsible choices supported by professional guidance rather than peer pressure or viral challenges.