Greece's viticultural landscape is a vibrant tapestry, extending far beyond the well-known Assyrtiko and Xinomavro. Recent decades have witnessed a remarkable resurgence and exploration of numerous native grape varieties, each contributing distinct flavors and aromas to the world of wine. From the sun-drenched Peloponnese to the volcanic Aegean islands and the ancient lands of Crete, winemakers are diligently uncovering the immense potential of these indigenous gems. This ongoing discovery not only enriches Greece's winemaking identity but also offers a diverse array of compelling options for wine enthusiasts seeking new and exciting experiences.
Exploring the Depths of Greece's Viticultural Heritage
In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, the rich tapestry of Greece's indigenous grape varieties began to unfold, revealing a diverse spectrum of flavors and aromas. While Assyrtiko and Xinomavro have rightfully earned their esteemed places as leading figures in Greek viticulture, akin to legendary heroes, the cast of remarkable varietals extends far beyond these two. Across the varied terrains of Greece, from the verdant foothills of Thessaly to the captivating volcanic soils of the Aegean, the rugged limestone slopes of Crete, and the expansive, airy plateaus of the Peloponnese, an estimated 200 significant native varieties thrive. Intriguingly, countless more remain to be identified and cultivated, promising a future of endless discovery for wine connoisseurs.
Among these burgeoning stars, Malagousia stands out as a true success story. Its journey began in the 1970s, rescued and cultivated by Professor Vassilis Logothetis of the University of Thessaloniki at Domaine Porto Carras in Macedonia. Recognizing its immense potential beyond just a blending grape, winemaker Evangelos Gerovassiliou, then at Carras, championed its cause, transforming it into a benchmark varietal wine. With its delightful peach, spicy, and herbaceous notes, Malagousia rapidly spread across Greece. Today, it remains a top Greek variety, excellent on its own or blended with grapes like Assyrtiko, and ages beautifully in steel or oak. Its success spurred Greek winemakers to seek out their own unique vineyard heroes instead of relying on international varieties like Merlot or Chardonnay.
Another aromatic marvel, Moschofilero, emerged from the Mantinia plateau in the northern Peloponnese, following in Malagousia's footsteps. This joyous grape, celebrated for its vibrant aromas of lemon zest and roses, found its champion in Leonidas Nassiakos, former winemaker at Semeli, who established Nofus Winery in 2020 dedicated solely to Moschofilero. Nassiakos recounts how Moschofilero revolutionized Greek wine perception in the early 1990s, becoming the first wine ordered by its varietal name, a shift from the previous generic categories of white, rosé, red, or retsina.
From the picturesque island of Cephalonia in the western Ionian Islands, Robola offers a stark contrast to the perfumed Moschofilero with its stony, muscular character. Despite its delicate counterpart's aromatic charm, Robola stands as one of Greece's most promising native varieties for high-quality wines, perhaps the closest Greek equivalent to the understated drive and mineral grip found in fine Chablis.
In central Greece, Savatiano, once primarily used for bulk tavern wines and retsina, has been re-evaluated. Despite its historical association with neutrality due to its high yields (around 250hl/ha), when handled with care, Savatiano truly impresses. Visionary producers like Papagiannakos, Akriotou, and Mylonas in Attica have demonstrated its potential to create characterful, age-worthy wines across various styles. Stamatis Mylonas, a firm believer whose Savatiano earned a DWWA Gold medal in 2014, enthusiastically anticipates its future, stating that despite its extensive winemaking history, Savatiano is just beginning to capture the wine world's attention as the next significant Greek variety. He believes there's still much more to discover, expressing joy at the increasing number of excellent wines produced.
Greece's most widely planted red variety, Agiorgitiko (pronounced ah-yor-YEE-tee-ko), from the high-altitude Nemea PDO in the Peloponnese, is far easier to enjoy than to pronounce. Its vibrant fruity profile, deep color, and velvety tannins make it instantly appealing to most wine drinkers compared to the more austere Xinomavro from appellations like Naoussa in Macedonia. In terms of style, Nemea (Agiorgitiko) is to Naoussa (Xinomavro) what Bolgheri is to Barolo, or Bordeaux is to Burgundy. Agiorgitiko comes in a range of styles, from early-drinking wines that can be chilled, to more age-worthy and intense bottlings reminiscent of Saint-Émilion or top Argentine Malbec. Pioneers such as Papaioannou, Skouras, and Gaia continue to push the boundaries of what this incredibly promising variety can offer.
The journey into Greece's viticultural soul continues with Limniona, another variety with immense quality potential but limited plantings. Revived in 2000 by Zafeirakis, it is emerging as a flagship red for Thessaly, and despite small volumes, its quality is undeniable. Not to be confused with Limniona, Limnio, an ancient grape mentioned by Aristotle and Hesiod (who called it 'Lemnia'), hails from the island of Lemnos. Producers like Lefteris Anagnostou of Ekho are dedicated to bringing it to wider attention, although today it accounts for only 10% of the island's vineyards, finding greater success in northern Greece. On the island of Paros, the white Monemvasia and red Mandilaria are reclaiming their traditional stature, often co-fermented to produce supple, spicy red wines with a silken texture akin to Emmanuel Reynaud’s Château Rayas and Château des Tours.
Crete, Greece's largest island, is ideally suited for quality viticulture. Three local winemakers, all named Nikos, have significantly influenced the direction of native varieties here. Nikos Douloufakis pioneered Vidiano, Crete's most promising white grape. He describes it as "a Mediterranean white with the elegance of Viognier and the structure of Assyrtiko," boasting a dry profile, abundant peach and citrus fruit aromas, a hint of salinity, and a smooth, lingering finish. Another Nikos, Nikos Karavitakis, firmly believes that Kotsifali, traditionally a blending grape, has the potential to produce outstanding varietal wines. He notes its noble character, often found in top-tier wines, comparing it to Burgundy and high-quality Garnacha from Spain, asserting that the entire region needs to truly grasp Kotsifali's beauty and power. Lastly, Nikos Lyrarakis resurrected the almost extinct Dafni variety, which now forms the basis of some of Crete's most distinctive single-vineyard wines. The dedicated effort to recover Greece's indigenous vineyard heritage over the past three decades continues to yield remarkable fruit.
The continuous exploration and rediscovery of Greece's native grape varieties represent a thrilling chapter in the nation's winemaking story. While the powerful narratives of Assyrtiko and Xinomavro rightly captivate, the emerging heroes like Malagousia, Moschofilero, and Agiorgitiko, among many others, demonstrate the profound depth and diversity waiting to be embraced. This ongoing journey not only revitalizes ancient traditions but also cements Greece's position as a dynamic and innovative force in the global wine arena, offering endless possibilities for discovery and delight to discerning palates worldwide.
The Promise and Peril of Uncharted Terroirs
Lefteris Anagnostou aptly summarizes the sentiment, acknowledging the immense fortune of having such a rich array of native varieties across Greece, considering it a privilege to work with them. However, he also emphasizes that significant effort is still required to fully uncover and promote this invaluable heritage. While not all these rediscovered varieties may achieve the widespread impact of Assyrtiko or Xinomavro, some possess the inherent quality to potentially surpass them in time. For those who have already experienced the excellence of contemporary Greek wines, this burgeoning landscape of native heroes offers an exhilarating prospect and a compelling invitation to delve deeper into its captivating narratives.